Introduction to Mathira Karatina Factory in Kenya's Nyeri Region - How to Brew Kenyan Coffee

Mathira Karatina Factory, Nyeri, Kenya — and How to Brew Kenyan Coffee

Kenya is a model country for producing excellent coffee beans. Coffee was introduced from Britain in 1900, and varieties were limited to traditional Arabica until 1950, when the outstanding Bourbon varieties SL28 and SL34 emerged. All coffee is processed with the washed method, and grading follows the AA PLUS, AA, and AB system — though this only indicates uniformity of bean size, not differences in quality. Premium altitudes range from 4,200 to 6,800 feet. From 2009 to 2010, global warming and plant disease hurt production and pushed prices higher. After that, the steady rise of specialty coffee and Kenya's irreplaceable blackberry flavor have kept high-quality Kenyan beans at a premium. The beans are relatively large, with a prominent wine-like blackberry acidity, and can be harvested twice a year — April to June is the secondary season, and October to December is the main harvest.

Most beans are uniformly graded and inspected by the Kenya Coffee Board, then sold at auction. The public auction system dates back to before 1934 and uses an agent system. Kenya has 50 licensed agents who send sample beans to their customers for cupping, and customers can have their agents bid on their favorite coffees at auction. This approach seemed to encourage middlemen to erode farmers' income, however, so in 2006 Kenya opened up 32 independent sales agents who can deal directly with foreign buyers without going through auction. Even so, all coffee must meet Kenya Coffee Board standards for quality, storage, and bank guarantees before it can be sold. The two systems operate in parallel, and after years of development the result has become the most transparent auction distribution system, where better-quality coffee can command better prices through cupping — encouraging more cooperatives and farms to take part.

Mathira Karatina Processing Plant is located in the Nyeri region of western Kenya and began operations in 1951. In 2011, production was 220,000 kilograms (about 3,666 bags), with hopes of reaching 350,000 kilograms (about 5,800 bags) in the next season. It is a small plant that selects only fully ripe red cherries hand-picked by farmers. The harvested cherries are delivered to the plant the same day, where the pulp and fruit flesh are removed, then fermented for 16-48 hours and washed to remove surface mucilage. This is a crucial step for preserving the robust blackberry acidity, and the price of the beans is determined here. That is why more and more Kenyan beans are choosing to undergo this important process at small plants — because freshness ensures good quality.

FrontStreet Coffee recommends these brewing parameters:

V60 / 90°C / 1:15 / 2'20"

FrontStreet Coffee Recommendation

Kenya's bright, juicy acidity is one of the most recognizable profiles in coffee, and FrontStreet's Kenya Small Tomato is a standout example. Kenya is especially skilled at double-washing its green beans, and this repeated washing and soaking brings out the juice character to the fullest. The cup shows rich aromas of cherry tomato, smoked plum, snow pear, black plum, and brown sugar — sweet-tart and juicy, and a favorite among many coffee lovers.

For a contrasting washed coffee, FrontStreet's Washed Yirgacheffe Gotiti Cooperative is clean and floral, with jasmine, citrus, and lemon acidity, and works beautifully for pour-over, cold brew, or espresso.