Coffee's Increasing 'Chinese-Style' Transformation: Lacking Roots and Soul

Although coffee and coffee cultivation techniques were introduced to China's Yunnan province by French missionaries as early as 1904, coffee remained in a state of "acclimatization difficulties" for a long time. This was because coffee, as a crop, failed to bring effective economic benefits to farmers at that time, and its flavor didn't suit Chinese palates.

It wasn't until recent years, with changing attitudes among China's younger generation and rapid shifts in global food culture, that coffee gradually gained importance among the Chinese people. Today, domestic coffee chain brands have grown stronger and are constantly changing coffee's status in people's minds. Both pricing and positioning have shifted from luxury to everyday items, and these brands are gradually reshaping public perception of coffee.

The reason specialty coffee culture has spread so rapidly in China is largely thanks to local brands, as they have given more people the opportunity to taste and accept coffee. Once overlooked, Yunnan coffee has now become highly sought after, with an increasing number of domestic cafés and coffee brands promoting Yunnan coffee beans. Consequently, Chinese coffee has gradually taken on a "Chinese-style" trend.

The Rise of Chinese-Style Coffee Innovation

Beyond the vigorous promotion of Yunnan coffee beans, coffee tasting methods and the positioning of coffee shops/brands have also launched a new round of localization. Brand marketing has encouraged people to try coffee, and where there's demand, there's continuous innovation. Coffee creativity has closely followed "Guochao" (national trend) and "local culture" movements.

Conventional coffee beverages and even creative cocktails with coffee effects can no longer satisfy young people's curiosity for novelty. Thus, many coffee professionals have begun creating "New Chinese-style" coffee, integrating it with representative local foods, dietary cultures, and uniquely Chinese cooking methods. Through cultural consensus, this imported beverage has begun to don a Chinese coat.

Traditional Chinese Techniques in Coffee Preparation

Coffee brewing is no longer limited to drip, immersion, pressure, or siphon methods—China's unique stewing techniques can also be applied to coffee extraction. Low-temperature slow cooking can extract the most essential flavors from ingredients, and coffee is no exception. "Although Chinese people started drinking coffee late, they must have their own approach"—this is what the inventor of Chinese-style stewed coffee believed.

Coffee containers are no longer limited to coffee cups and mugs; Chinese tea bowls, clay pots, and traditional ceramic bowls have entered the scene. Coffee shop décor has also moved beyond gentle wooden tones, increasingly incorporating vintage items from people's memories. Through visual localization, the distance between coffee and the public has been shortened, making coffee appear more "everyday."

Cultural Fusion in Coffee Pairings

Spain has churros with coffee; China has fried dough sticks and jianbing (Chinese crepes) with coffee. Ireland has whiskey coffee; China has rice wine and Moutai coffee. These combinations might seem mismatched, right? But these are the foods most familiar to Chinese people. It's both a gimmick and an attempt to help people let go of the "obsession" that coffee can only be paired with cakes and cookies. Through unique flavor combinations and seamless integration of "recipes," coffee has become more "down-to-earth."

Critical Perspective on Chinese-Style Coffee

Although coffee is continuously being "Sinicized," it's unlikely to become a distinct "school" or "genre." Many "Chinese-style" coffees are merely reverse guidance of new consumption habits rather than practices worth "inheriting." They lack roots, soul, and professionalism. They might become a new coffee culture but won't be remembered long-term and passed down by people. Many "Chinese-style" coffees are overly elaborate, causing people to forget coffee's inherent purity.

The flavor of coffee itself is not what people care about, which is why Yunnan coffee hasn't gained widespread acceptance. No one focuses on the inherent quality of coffee beans, yet everyone eagerly bestows "exquisite packaging" upon Yunnan coffee beans.

A food cannot be accepted and leave a deep impression through its taste alone. Even with exquisite cooking and gorgeous packaging, it won't be remembered for long. The same applies to "Chinese-style" coffee. Whether it's Chinese-grown coffee beans that haven't fundamentally improved or the various creative coffees on the market, people only remember the appearance and don't appreciate coffee itself.

Of course, although "Chinese-style" coffee cannot be called a distinct genre, at least it allows Chinese people to feel that coffee is truly everyday. It can be brewed as delicately as tea and can be created with more possibilities like new-style tea drinks. Only through continuous innovation can more people accept coffee.

Image source: Internet · Xiaohongshu

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