What Kind of Coffee Bean is Geisha? What Price Category Does Panamanian Geisha Coffee Belong To?

When you think of the world's most expensive coffee beans, you might think of Jamaican Blue Mountain, Indonesian Kopi Luwak, or Hawaiian Kona... In reality, this assumption might have been valid before 2000, but since the millennium, with the global rise of specialty coffee, the door to origin flavors has opened for people. Coffee is no longer described simply by "aroma" and "bitterness," but now encompasses more vocabulary like floral notes, fruit acidity, and caramel sweetness. In this new era, the new darling of coffee is undoubtedly "Geisha"!

What are the characteristics of Panamanian Geisha?

Panamanian Geisha coffee became known to the world when Hacienda La Esmeralda won the Best of Panama (BOP) competition in 2004. The Geisha coffee planted at Hacienda La Esmeralda originated from seedlings obtained in the 1960s from CATIE (The Tropical Agricultural Research and Higher Education Center) in Costa Rica, with the seed code: T2722.

FrontStreet Coffee, through comparative observation, found that the most prominent feature of T2772 Geisha beans is their large, slender shape - pointed at both ends and full in the middle. After roasting, they curl inward-outward, always reminding FrontStreet Coffee of "cocktail buns." The reason Panamanian Geisha has gained popularity among countless people is that it differs from the traditional, rich coffee flavor in most people's impressions. It's more like a cup of refreshing floral and fruit tea, always carrying rich aromas and complex fruit flavors, evoking a series of extraordinary fragrances. At different temperatures, you can experience delicate textures and sweet-sour fruit notes filling the entire palate.

As an agricultural crop, coffee is influenced by various terroir factors that affect the flavor development of coffee cherries. Compared to other Arabica varieties, Geisha is very particular, requiring high altitude, fertile soil, cloud cover or plant shade, and cannot be exposed to direct sunlight. The owner of Hacienda La Esmeralda has mentioned that the estate needs numerous shade trees to protect the delicate Geisha from sunlight, and traditional pruning methods must be adopted during the initial planting period, otherwise the plants are prone to death. Geisha planted at higher altitudes has longer maturation periods for coffee cherries, resulting in more complex and unique flavor profiles. Additionally, the high-altitude environment means fruits mature later and yield less.

Panamanian coffee cultivation is concentrated in the western highlands: Boquete, Volcan, and Renacimiento, with the Boquete valley and the Volcan area surrounding Baru Volcano being the most renowned. Both regions are located in Chiriquí Province, right in the center of the coffee belt, boasting fertile volcanic soil and ancient forests. The Boquete region is one of the towns in Chiriquí Province, situated on a plateau at approximately 1,000-2,000 meters elevation on the eastern side of Baru Volcano. It faces the warm, humid monsoon winds from the Caribbean Sea while being backed by the cold Atlantic currents. The terrain is high and steep, with "Baru Volcano National Park" serving as an ecological conservation area with rich biodiversity, featuring seven microclimates. Perennially shrouded in mist with abundant rainfall, these conditions create excellent growing conditions locally.

Thanks to these unique terroir conditions, coffee absorbs various essences and transforms into elegant floral-fruit harmony with multi-layered acidity. FrontStreet Coffee's Panamanian Hacienda La Esmeralda Geisha coffee and Elida Estate Geisha coffee both come from the Boquete region.

Hacienda La Esmeralda

The predecessor of Hacienda La Esmeralda was the Palmira farm, purchased in 1964 by American banker Rudolph A. Peterson after his retirement. Initially, it mainly operated a dairy business, and later his son resigned from his medical position to assist his father in managing the farm. In 1987, Caturra and Catuai varieties were introduced, and the farm was renamed Hacienda La Esmeralda. In 1994, a wet processing plant was established to officially begin coffee production.

When the third-generation estate owner Daniel joined the management in 1997, specialty coffee was also on the rise. Daniel learned cupping and conducted cupping evaluations on the first batch of Geisha harvested in 2003, classifying Geisha coffee trees at different elevations. When the coffee was harvested again the following year, the Peterson family submitted the Geisha coffee beans with floral and fruity acidity that they had cupped to compete in that year's Best of Panama, ultimately winning the championship with an outstanding score.

Hacienda La Esmeralda Planting Details

Hacienda La Esmeralda has a total of 4 main coffee-growing areas, with Geisha varieties planted in 3 major plots: Jaramillo, Canas Verdes, and El Velo, each of which is further subdivided into smaller plots.

As the earliest estate purchased by the Peterson family, Jaramillo is where Geisha was discovered, with coffee plants averaging over 15 years of age. The terrain here is relatively low, with the highest average elevation being only 1,700 meters, but the slope is quite steep, making harvesting work somewhat challenging. Jaramillo is named after the Jaramillo mountain range east of Boquete, with an annual rainfall of 4,000ml, average daytime temperatures between 19-25°C, and average nighttime temperatures between 11-15°C. The entire area has humid and cold air. Jaramillo is subdivided into 6 red label plots: Mario, Noria, Reina, Bosque, Buenos Aires, and Caballeriza, which was added last year.

Canas Verdes estate is usually transliterated as "Kannasi Weides" in Chinese, while in Spanish it translates to "green reeds" or "green fields." Half of Canas Verdes was acquired together with Jaramillo in 1967. After Geisha rose to fame in 2004, the Peterson family gradually began purchasing smaller surrounding planting lands. Since the entire growing area is situated on the eastern slopes of Baru Volcano, the elevation range is quite extensive, distributed from 1,500 to 2,050 meters.

Canas Verdes has an annual rainfall of 3,500ml, average daytime temperatures between 16-23°C, and average nighttime temperatures between 10-15°C. The highly complex terrain structure, volcanic soil, and distinct day-night temperature differences endow Geisha with aromatic characteristics. Currently, the Geisha-growing area in Canas Verdes includes 11 small plots: Lino, Coronado, Fundador, León, Montaña, Trapiche, Jacinta, Cabaña, Tumaco, as well as Nido and Colga.

El Velo (Veil) is the newest estate purchased by Hacienda La Esmeralda in 2012. It is the highest elevation plot in the estate and the only area that has undergone meticulous leveling. Besides primarily producing Geisha, El Velo also grows over 400 coffee varieties purchased from CATIE, including Laurina, Pacamara, Mocha, and SL28, for long-term development and exploration.

Compared to the other 2 plantations, El Velo extends from 1,650 to 1,900 meters up the mountain, with an average annual rainfall of 4,000ml, average daytime temperatures between 16-25°C, and average nighttime temperatures between 11-16°C. The entire area encompasses 50.25 hectares of coffee-growing land, with Geisha cultivation covering 37.9 hectares, divided into 7 detailed plots: Guabo, Portón, Durazno, Mural, Higo, Buena Vista, and Águila.

As for the lowest elevation Palmira farm, it mainly cultivates Catuai. The entire plantation area covers approximately 30 hectares and was the first farm purchased by the Peterson family. It not only serves as the internal office area for La Esmeralda but also houses the processing plant that handles all green beans.

Hacienda La Esmeralda Geisha Two Major Grades

Under the management of the Peterson siblings, Hacienda La Esmeralda's Geisha is divided into 4 major brands for sale in the global market, distinguished by cupping performance, harvest and processing time, processing method, variety, altitude, and plot area.

Esmeralda Special

Known as the Red Label (commonly called Red Label), Esmeralda Special represents Hacienda La Esmeralda's premium Geisha outside of auction lots. Geisha in this category is grown at elevations above 1,600 meters and achieves cupping scores of no less than 91 points. Each micro-lot has detailed traceability information, including plot, elevation, latitude and longitude, tree age, harvest time, processing method, and more.

For example, FrontStreet Coffee's latest acquired Esmeralda Red Label batch is selected from the Trapiche plot, with fruit harvested on February 13th this year. After 25 days of slow natural drying, it brings rich aromas to the coffee, similar to jasmine, cranberry, passion fruit, citrus, and cinnamon.

Private Collection

Known as the Green Label (commonly called Green Label), this was once a non-auction but excellent quality Geisha batch. The Green Label is harvested from a blend of Geisha from different plots in the two main estates at elevations between 1,600-1,800 meters. With its classic citrus aroma and honey notes, it has become the preferred choice for many "budget-conscious" Geisha enthusiasts. Since 2022, Hacienda La Esmeralda has also begun to indicate which sub-estate this grade of Geisha originates from.

Both Red Label and Green Label Geisha batches use natural or washed processing methods. The Red Label features unique, rich floral aromas, complex fruit acidity, and multi-layered sweetness. Although the Green Label is graded lower than the Red Label, it still possesses classic Geisha flavors: jasmine fragrance, citrus and berry juice sensations, and a persistent aftertaste.

FrontStreet Coffee compared the natural processed Red Label Geisha with the Green Label Geisha: The Red Label Geisha exudes rich rose aroma immediately after grinding, with tropical fruits like mango on the palate, and a smooth, creamy texture that doesn't feel like drinking coffee at all, but rather a floral and fruit tea; The Green Label Geisha presents clearer flavors, with jasmine fragrance, sweet and sour notes of berries and lemon, and a persistent green tea aftertaste.

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