Ethiopian Gesha Coffee Beans - What's the Difference Between Ethiopian Gesha and Panamanian Gesha

When it comes to Geisha coffee, the first thing that comes to mind for coffee enthusiasts is undoubtedly the Panama La Esmeralda Geisha coffee beans. However, with the development of the specialty coffee market, in recent years, Ethiopia, the origin of the Geisha coffee variety, has also seen estates producing high-quality Geisha coffee. This estate is Gesha Village Estate. So what are the flavor differences between these two major producing regions that both produce Geisha coffee? What are the unique characteristics of each estate? FrontStreet Coffee will explain this to coffee enthusiasts through this article.

Origin of the Geisha Coffee Variety

According to FrontStreet Coffee, the Geisha coffee variety was discovered in the Gesha forest of Ethiopia in 1931. Afterward, Gesha was sent to the Coffee Research Institute in Kenya. In 1936, it was introduced to Uganda and Tanzania, in 1953 to Costa Rica, and in 1970 to Panama.

However, FrontStreet Coffee understands that during this period, Geisha coffee did not receive much attention. This was because the yield of Geisha coffee trees was very low, cultivation was difficult, and economic benefits were minimal. Therefore, no one paid attention to it, and it was even used as a windbreak tree for other crops.

Panama La Esmeralda Estate

First, FrontStreet Coffee will introduce Panama La Esmeralda Estate Geisha coffee beans. Although Geisha originated in Ethiopia, it was at La Esmeralda Estate that it was truly elevated to prominence. Therefore, it can be said that La Esmeralda Estate was the one that recognized the potential of the Geisha coffee variety.

According to FrontStreet Coffee, the history of La Esmeralda Estate began in 1964 when American banker Rudolph A. Peterson retired, moved to Panama, and purchased La Esmeralda Estate in Boquete. Initially, it focused on dairy farming. Later, his son Price Peterson left his medical career to help his father manage the farm. In 1987, they introduced Caturra and Catuai coffee varieties, and in 1994, established a washed processing plant, giving them their own coffee processing facility.

The discovery of Geisha coffee was purely accidental. Because Geisha coffee trees had low yield and poor economic benefits at the time, the previous estate owner used them as windbreak trees to block strong winds and protect the high-yielding Caturra and Catuai coffee in other areas.

It was under these circumstances that the coffee pickers at La Esmeralda Estate also harvested Geisha coffee cherries. When the estate owners conducted cupping, they discovered that this coffee bean was exceptionally special, with rich citrus and floral aromas. They then located the Geisha coffee trees and began to explore the potential of the Geisha variety. In 2004, La Esmeralda Estate entered Geisha coffee beans separately into competitions. The Geisha coffee beans did not disappoint La Esmeralda Estate—they won first place in the BOP (Best of Panama) coffee cupping competition held in Panama, thus establishing La Esmeralda Estate's position in the specialty coffee world.

Characteristics of Geisha Coffee Beans

As FrontStreet Coffee mentioned above, Geisha coffee made a stunning debut at the BOP competition. This sparked a trend of planting Geisha coffee trees in Panama. However, Geisha coffee trees are not easy to cultivate. They have very low yields, strict altitude requirements, and specific demands for harvesting and processing green beans. It is precisely because of these various challenges that not every estate can produce high-quality Geisha coffee, which is one of the reasons why Panama La Esmeralda Estate dominates the Geisha coffee market.

Additionally, Geisha coffee has a remarkable characteristic: the coffee fruits grown in harsher environmental conditions tend to have better flavors, but harvesting them becomes more difficult.

Therefore, La Esmeralda Estate puts most of its energy into developing infrastructure to support excellent batch separation and meticulous processing. They classify Geisha by planting plots, which is why you see Red Label Geisha, Green Label Geisha, and Blue Label Geisha at FrontStreet Coffee today.

La Esmeralda Estate Coffee Planting Regional Divisions

As FrontStreet Coffee mentioned above, the coffee beans planted in La Esmeralda Estate are regionally divided. They are strictly classified by altitude, microclimate, cupping performance, and cultivated varieties, dividing the estate's planting areas into five major brands for sale. Among these, Geisha varieties include three brands: Esmeralda Special (Red Label), Private Collection (Green Label), and Geisha 1500 (Blue Label).

The three main plots of La Esmeralda Estate are Jaramillo, Canas Verdes, and El Velo. Each plot is further subdivided into smaller plots.

Jaramillo:

Annual rainfall is 4000ml, average daytime temperature is 19-25°C, average nighttime temperature is 11-15°C, and average altitude is 1600-1700m. The Jaramillo plot is subdivided into 5 small plots: Mario, Noria, Reina, Bosque, and Buenos Aires.

Canas Verdes:

Annual rainfall is 3500ml, average daytime temperature is 16-23°C, average nighttime temperature is 10-15°C, and average altitude is 1600-1800m. Canas includes 9 small plots: Lino, Coronado, Fundador, León, Montaña, Trapiche, Chinta, Cabaña, and Tumaco.

El Velo:

This plot is the newest acquired by La Esmeralda Estate, with an average altitude of 1700-1900m. In addition to Geisha and Catuai, this plot also grows a small number of other exotic varieties, such as Laurina, Pacamara, Mocha, and SL28. El Velo is divided into 7 small plots: Guabo, Portón, Durazno, Mural, Higo, Buena Vista, and Águila.

La Esmeralda Estate Red, Green, and Blue Label Grading Standards

La Esmeralda Estate Red Label Geisha

Esmeralda Special Geisha, commonly known as Red Label, is made from Geisha coffee beans grown at altitudes of 1600-1800 meters, with cupping scores above 90 points, and produced in the Jaramillo and Canas Verdes regions.

Additionally, it must participate in La Esmeralda Estate's own independent auction. Only the Geisha batches from the designated plots that are submitted for auction become auction Red Labels. However, there are also non-auction Red Labels on the market today. These are actually Geisha beans selected from the same plots that were not submitted for auction and then circulated on the market. The variety and quality are consistent, but they show differences in pricing.

FrontStreet Coffee Panama La Esmeralda Estate Red Label Geisha Coffee Beans

Country: Panama
Region: Boquete (La Esmeralda Estate)
Altitude: 1700 m
Variety: Geisha
Processing: Natural Process
Flavor: Citrus, complex fruits, rose tea, honey

La Esmeralda Estate Green Label Geisha

Private Collection, commonly known as Green Label, differs from Red Label Geisha in that it is not from independent competition batches, but still consists of excellent quality Geisha varieties. Green Label Geisha is made from micro-batch blends grown at altitudes of 1600-1800 meters from different plots such as Jaramillo, Canas Verdes, and others.

Because it uses a blending model without detailed plot specifications, sometimes the flavor similarity between Green Label Geisha and Red Label Geisha is very high.

Additionally, although Green Label Geisha is not as high-grade as Red Label Geisha, it still possesses the classic Geisha flavors, such as the characteristic floral and fruity notes, citrus acidity, and thick, juicy mouthfeel. Therefore, FrontStreet Coffee believes that Green Label Geisha offers the best value among these three labels.

FrontStreet Coffee Panama La Esmeralda Estate Green Label Geisha Coffee Beans

Country: Panama
Region: Boquete (La Esmeralda Estate)
Altitude: 1700 m
Variety: Geisha
Processing: Natural Process
Flavor: Jasmine, citrus, honeydew melon, berries

La Esmeralda Estate Blue Label Geisha

Geisha 1500 is the Blue Label, consisting of Geisha coffee grown at altitudes of 1400-1500 meters, harvested from different plots of La Esmeralda's three sub-estates. The Geisha produced in this region is sold for export and becomes Volcanic Geisha coffee beans, with the same flavor profile as the original Blue Label. Currently, the Blue Label brand has been discontinued by La Esmeralda Estate, and these batches are exported for sale as Volcanic Geisha coffee beans. Volcanic Geisha has light floral notes, fruity sweet and sour flavors, and a less full mouthfeel compared to the other two brands.

FrontStreet Coffee Panama La Esmeralda Estate Washed Blue Label Geisha Coffee Beans

Country: Panama
Region: Boquete (La Esmeralda Estate)
Altitude: 1400-1500 m
Variety: Geisha
Processing: Washed Process
Flavor: Lemon, oolong tea, cane sugar, peach

The above is the information compiled by FrontStreet Coffee regarding Panama La Esmeralda Estate Geisha coffee. Next, FrontStreet Coffee will introduce the flavor characteristics of Ethiopian Geisha coffee producing regions.

Ethiopian Gesha Village Estate

Gesha Village Estate is the most famous Geisha coffee estate in Ethiopia. According to FrontStreet Coffee, the estate owner's cultivation of Geisha coffee also originated from an opportunity. In 2007, documentary director Adam Overton and his photographer wife Rachel Samuel, while filming a documentary about Ethiopian coffee for the Ethiopian government, came into contact with the Gera coffee forest in the Bench-Maji region. During this process, they not only rediscovered this great land of Ethiopia but also developed the idea of establishing their own coffee estate and brand.

In 2009, they had the good fortune to meet the renowned mule estate owner and BOP judge Willem Boot. Willem Boot's idea of "returning to Ethiopia to find Geisha's birthplace" provided an opportunity for the couple. In 2011, they returned to Bench-Maji, where several areas were called Gesha Village and were the most likely places to find native Geisha varieties.

Adam followed Willem Boot on expeditions into the surrounding forests. In a jungle surrounded by dense forest (called Gori Gesha Forest), they discovered multiple wild coffee tree species, among which the most exciting find was the native Geisha variety. They collected seeds from the native Geisha trees, screened them, and then planted them in Gesha Village. They decided to establish the estate here and named it Gesha Village Coffee Estate.

Gesha Village Estate Coffee Bean Growing Conditions

Gesha Village Estate is located in western Ethiopia, in the Bench Maji region, surrounded by dense jungle. The location of Gesha Village has beautiful scenery and pleasant weather, with views of ancient and vast forests from higher elevations. The estate owners Adam and Rachel spent three years searching for the right estate. Under local guidance, they went to the forest of Geisha's native homeland. It is a two-day drive from the capital Addis Ababa.

Gesha Village Estate covers approximately 471 hectares, with about 320 hectares dedicated to coffee cultivation and brown-red loam soil. Planting density is maintained at 7,000 coffee trees per hectare. The plot is named after people and "Oma" to commemorate respected and beloved religious leaders. Gesha Village coffee beans are full of complex flavors and are very rare, often selected by international competing baristas for competitions. Due to maintaining the local ecological environment and establishing good relationships with local residents, they have given back to the local community by establishing the Gesha Village Foundation, promoting educational development through two schools near the estate.

Gesha Village Coffee Bean Varieties

According to FrontStreet Coffee, in just over a decade, the estate has planted three Geisha coffee varieties: Gesha 1931 and Gori Gesha are named after the expedition team that discovered the coffee trees, while the third is Illubabor, provided by the Ethiopian Coffee Research Center.

Gesha 1931 has been determined through research to be the closest variety to Panama Geisha coffee, confirmed through observations of plant morphology, bean shape and size, and cupping. The Gori Gesha native variety was collected by the Gesha Village Estate owner in 2011 during their own expedition from the Gori Gesha wild coffee forest, about 20 kilometers from the current Gesha Village Estate, and no duplicate samples have been found elsewhere.

Gesha Village Geisha Coffee Grading System

According to FrontStreet Coffee, Willem Boot also brought Panama's business model to Gesha Village Estate, creating the current Geisha coffee grading system within the estate. This is what you see on FrontStreet Coffee's menu: Gesha Village Auction, Gold Label, Red Label, Green Label, and Chaka Geisha coffee beans.

However, these grading standards differ significantly from those of Panama La Esmeralda Estate's Geisha coffee grading. FrontStreet Coffee currently has Gesha Village Gold Label batches, Red Label batches, and Chaka batches. Next, FrontStreet Coffee will briefly explain the grading standards for Gesha Village Estate Geisha coffee beans.

Auction Batches: Account for only 3.7% of Gesha Village's annual production. These are the estate's top-tier batches selected through rigorous screening, available only through the 2018 Gesha Village Coffee Estate Global Auction. The cupping scores for 2018 auction batches ranged from 88.15-92.67 points. These are further divided into Champion's Reserve and Farm Reserve. For example, Gesha Village 2018 Auction Lot RSV.6 belongs to the auction batches.

Gold Label Batches: Gold Label accounts for only 5% of Gesha Village's annual production and can be considered almost equivalent to auction batches. These are typically chosen by competition participants from around the world. For example, in the 2018 WBC World Championship held in the Netherlands, the champions from Australia and Japan selected Gold Label batches. Roasters with high quality requirements also purchase them. They have complete traceability, with prominent flavors and high complexity in each batch, making them the second-best label after the auction batches. FrontStreet Coffee's Gesha Village Gold Label comes from the Oma 059 batch.

FrontStreet Coffee Ethiopian Gesha Village Estate Gold Label Geisha Coffee Beans

Region: Ethiopia, Bench Maji Region
Estate: Gesha Village Estate, Oma Plot
Altitude: 1900-2040 meters
Variety: Gesha 1931
Processing: Natural Process
Flavor: Citrus, lemon, tropical fruits, cream, nuts, tea-like sensation

Red Label Batches: Batches with complete traceability and typical Gesha Village flavors. The flavor intensity and complexity are slightly weaker than Gold Label batches, making them very cost-effective single-origin batches.

FrontStreet Coffee Ethiopian Gesha Village Estate Red Label Geisha Coffee Beans

Region: Ethiopia, Bench Maji Region
Estate: Gesha Village Estate
Altitude: 1909-2069 meters
Variety: Gori Gesha
Processing: Natural Process
Flavor: Coconut, licorice, cream, chocolate, toffee, citrus, almond, strawberry

Green Label Batches: The official name is SINGLE-TERROIR (single terroir/plot). This coffee comes from a single farm in Gesha Village. Complete traceability information for each batch number in the Single-Terroir series can be found, including farm name, coffee variety, and processing date. FrontStreet Coffee has not yet stocked Green Label Gesha batches, but they will be available soon. Next, FrontStreet Coffee will share basic information about Gesha Village Green Label Geisha coffee beans.

FrontStreet Coffee Ethiopian Gesha Village Estate Green Label Geisha Coffee Beans

Region: Ethiopia, Bench Maji Region
Estate: Gesha Village Estate
Altitude: 1911-2001 meters
Variety: Gori Gesha
Processing: Natural Process
Flavor: Citrus, cherry, berries, honey, fermented notes

Chaka Batches: This is a Geisha coffee blend produced by Gesha Village, including three varieties: Gori Gesha, Gesha 1931, and Illubabor (Ethiopian native disease-resistant variety).

FrontStreet Coffee Ethiopian Gesha Village Estate Chaka Geisha Coffee Beans

Region: Ethiopia, Bench Maji Region
Estate: Gesha Village Estate
Altitude: 1909-2069 meters
Variety: Gori Gesha
Processing: Natural Process
Flavor: Citrus, grapefruit, cream, chocolate caramel

The above is the information compiled by FrontStreet Coffee regarding the flavor characteristics of Ethiopian Geisha coffee beans from producing regions. To help coffee enthusiasts more intuitively understand the characteristics of Geisha coffee from these two regions, FrontStreet Coffee will conduct a brewing flavor test comparison using Panama La Esmeralda Estate Red Label Geisha and Ethiopian Gesha Village Red Label Geisha coffee.

FrontStreet Coffee Geisha Coffee Bean Roasting Suggestions

To highlight the floral and fruity notes and bright acidity, FrontStreet Coffee uses light roasting. However, it's worth noting that even for the same Geisha variety, FrontStreet Coffee uses different parameters for roasting Red, Green, and Blue Labels. This requires the roaster's accumulated experience to judge the uniqueness of each bean.

La Esmeralda Estate Green Label: Enter at 160°C, heat at 110, damper at 3; return temperature at 1'28", when drum temperature reaches 140°C, open damper to 3.5, heat unchanged; when drum temperature reaches 153.3°C, bean surface turns yellow, grassy smell completely disappears, entering dehydration stage. When drum temperature reaches 161°C, adjust heat to 90, damper unchanged; at 6'54", bean surface shows ugly wrinkles and black spots, toast smell clearly changes to coffee aroma, can be defined as prelude to first crack. At this point, listen carefully for the sound of first crack, which starts at 7'50", open damper to 4, develop for 1'20 after first crack, discharge at 192.5°C.

Gesha Village Green Label: Yangjia 800N, 500g bean input: Enter at 175°C, heat at 130, damper at 3; return temperature at 1'36", when drum temperature reaches 92.8°C, at 3 minutes open damper to 4, increase heat to 140; when drum temperature reaches 152.6°C (6 minutes 26 seconds), bean surface turns yellow, grassy smell completely disappears, entering dehydration stage, reduce heat to 100; at 8'20", bean surface shows ugly wrinkles and black spots, toast smell clearly changes to coffee aroma, can be defined as prelude to first crack. At this point, listen carefully for the sound of first crack, which starts at 9'55", open damper to 5, develop for 1'30" after first crack, discharge at 193.5°C.

FrontStreet Coffee Brewing Sharing

Dose: 15 grams
Ratio: 1:15
Grind size: Fine pour-over grind (78% pass-through rate on #20 standard sieve)
Water temperature: 90 degrees Celsius

Brewing Method: FrontStreet Coffee uses segmented extraction, also known as three-stage pour-over.

Use 30g of water for 30-second bloom, then continue pouring in small circular motions to 125g for segmentation. When the water level drops and is about to expose the coffee bed, continue pouring to 225g and stop. When the water level drops and is about to expose the coffee bed again, remove the filter cone. (Timing starts from bloom) Extraction time is 2'00".

La Esmeralda Estate Green Label Coffee Beans Brewing Flavor: Rich jasmine floral aroma, high sweetness, citrus, berries, juicy sensation, cream, green tea, orange peel, cantaloupe. Overall flavor layers are rich, with lasting floral and citrus aftertaste.

Gesha Village Green Label Coffee Beans Brewing Flavor: Sweet and fragrant berry aroma, full and thick mouthfeel, with some cherry, red berry, and honey flavors. Aftertaste carries fermented aroma notes.

For more specialty coffee beans, please add FrontStreet Coffee on private WeChat, ID: kaixinguoguo0925

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