Geisha Coffee Bean Growing Regions and How to Distinguish Panamanian La Esmeralda's Red, Green, and Blue Label Grades

The Origin and Development of Geisha Coffee

Geisha coffee originated in Ethiopia, where the Geisha variety was first discovered in the Gori Geisha forest. In 1931, Geisha made its obscure journey from the Geisha mountains of southwestern Ethiopia to Kenya's Coffee Research Institute, then traveled through various coffee-growing regions. It was first introduced to Uganda and Tanzania in 1936, then to Costa Rica in 1953, and finally to Panama around 1960.

Initially, Geisha received little attention for nearly half a century. However, in 2003, Hacienda La Esmeralda (also known as Panama Geisha Hacienda La Esmeralda) separated it from other varieties, where it made its mark at the Best of Panama (BOP) competition. It ultimately became the BOP champion in 2004, stunning the coffee world by defeating established varieties like Bourbon, Caturra, Catuai, and Typica. This victory established Hacienda La Esmeralda's position in the specialty coffee industry and officially brought Geisha into the global spotlight. In the following years, Geisha swept the first prize awards at the Panama Cup of Excellence competition in 2005, 2006, and 2007.

Since Geisha gained fame through Panama's Hacienda La Esmeralda, Panama coffee beans rose in prominence, and Geisha coffee began to be cultivated in other major coffee-producing countries. However, the flavor profiles vary significantly. FrontStreet Coffee will now explain the differences between Panama Geisha coffee, Costa Rica Geisha coffee, and Ethiopian Geisha coffee.

Ethiopian Geisha Coffee

Ethiopia is the birthplace of Geisha coffee. In 2009, during a fortunate encounter, the idea of renowned mule estate owner and BOP judge Willem Boot inspired documentary director Adam Overton and his photographer wife Rachel Samuel. The Overton couple returned to Ethiopia, following Willem Boot on an "expedition" through the Gori Geisha forest, where they found wild Geisha. They collected seeds from native Geisha trees, conducted selection, planted them in Geisha Village, and established a coffee estate there, naming it Gesha Village Coffee Estate—the source of the Ethiopian Geisha Village coffee beans currently on FrontStreet Coffee's menu.

However, the Geisha coffee beans currently cultivated in Ethiopia's Geisha Village have little genetic relationship to the Panama Geisha coffee beans we know. Ethiopian Geisha coffee is divided into three varieties: Gori Gesha (GG): This variety replicates the genetic diversity found within the Gori Gesha coffee forest. Illubabor Forest 1974 (IF): Discovered during an expedition to the Illubabor Forest in 1974, later developed by the Ethiopian Research Center into a disease-resistant variety. Gesha 1931 (G31): A combination of varieties from different forests, very similar to Panama Geisha, selected through observation of plant morphology, bean appearance, screen size, and cupping quality.

The first two Geisha coffee varieties have completely different genetics from Panama Geisha coffee. According to official descriptions, Gesha 1931 is closest to Panama Geisha in both plant form and cupping performance, but the actual genetic consistency percentage is very low. Therefore, the flavor profiles of Ethiopian Geisha coffee and Panama Geisha coffee can be said to be entirely different.

Costa Rica Geisha Coffee

Costa Rica has been cultivating coffee for nearly two hundred years. As an important economic crop in the country, the coffee industry is well-established. Today, there are also many newly established estates, most of which have resources and willingness to cultivate Geisha variety coffee. Among them, the most famous is the Geisha coffee from Candlelight Estate.

The microclimate of Candlelight Estate is conducive to coffee growth. During the dry season mornings, Candlelight Estate can experience temperatures of 9 degrees Celsius, rising to 35 degrees Celsius by noon, then dropping back to 9 degrees Celsius by dusk. This significant diurnal temperature variation allows coffee cherries to better accumulate nutrients and develop more refined flavors.

Panama Geisha Coffee

Panama coffee was introduced from Costa Rica. Panama Geisha coffee is where our definition of Geisha coffee began. The description "Geisha coffee has enchanting floral aromas and berry-like sweet-tartness" originated from the Geisha coffee of Panama's Hacienda La Esmeralda. Hacienda La Esmeralda currently has four estates cultivating the Geisha variety: Cannas Verdes, El Velo, Jaramillo, and Palmira.

How to Distinguish Red Label, Green Label, and Blue Label Geisha Coffee?

Coffee enthusiasts new to Geisha often wonder about the differences between red label, green label, and blue label Geisha. First, we need to know that Hacienda La Esmeralda has three Geisha brands: Esmeralda Special, Private Collection, and Geisha 1500. It's well known that higher altitude brings richer aromatic complexity to coffee. Geisha coffee also has a peculiar characteristic—it performs best in extreme growing environments. Therefore, Hacienda La Esmeralda's Geisha classification is primarily based on planting altitude, with actual cupping quality as a secondary consideration.

Premium - Red Label [Auction Batches]

The commonly heard red label is the Geisha produced under Esmeralda Special. It selects Geisha beans grown at altitudes of 1,600-1,800 meters, with cupping scores above 90 points, from the Jaramillo and Cannas Verdes regions.

The red label available through Hacienda La Esmeralda's independent auctions consists of Geisha batches from designated plots selected for bidding. However, there are also non-auction red labels on the market today, which are actually Geisha beans from the same plots that were not submitted for auction, then circulated in the market. The variety and quality are consistent, with only differences in pricing.

Secondary - Green Label [Reserve Batches]

Private Collection is what we commonly know as green label—these are not independent competition batches, but Geisha varieties from plots not participating in auctions while still maintaining excellent quality. It selects Geisha grown at altitudes of 1,600-1,800 meters, from micro-batch mixed beans from different plots including Jaramillo, Cannas Verdes, and others.

Due to the micro-batch mixing model from different plots without detailed plot specifications, sometimes green label and red label show high similarity in flavor profiles yet have differences. Although green label is not as high-grade as red label, it still maintains the classic Geisha characteristics—floral aromas, fruit notes, citrus acidity, and thick, juicy texture. FrontStreet Coffee's green label Geisha coffee comes in both natural and washed processing methods. The washed process offers floral aromas, fruit notes, citrus acidity, with a fresh, clean texture; while the natural process maintains the washed processing foundation while imparting a thick, juicy texture.

Regular - Blue Label [Selected Batches]

Blue label is grown at altitudes of 1,400-1,500 meters and mixes Geisha coffee beans from three different plots: Jaramillo, Canas Verdes, and El Velo. In previous years, blue label Geisha was only available in washed processing, but the 2020 blue label batch added natural processing method. FrontStreet Coffee's blue label Geisha coffee is available in both natural and washed processing methods. The washed blue label has delicate floral aromas and bright acidity, while the natural processed blue label has subtle floral aromas and full juice-like sensations.

What Variety Does Panama Geisha Coffee Belong To?

Panama Geisha coffee beans belong to the Geisha variety, originating from a forest called Gori Geisha in the Geisha mountains of southwestern Ethiopia. This means "Geisha" is not only a variety name but also a place name. It is called "Geisha" precisely because its origin traces back to Ethiopia's Geisha Village. Ethiopian Geisha coffee is divided into three varieties: Gori Gesha (GG), Illubabor Forest 1974 (IF), and Gesha 1931 (G31). However, the Geisha coffee beans currently cultivated in Ethiopia's Geisha Village have little genetic relationship to the Panama Geisha coffee beans we know. The first two Geisha coffee varieties have completely different genetics from Panama Geisha coffee.

Hand Brew Parameters for Geisha Coffee Beans

FrontStreet Coffee recommends using freshly roasted coffee beans for brewing to maximize the appreciation of coffee's rich flavors. Coffee beans shipped by FrontStreet Coffee are roasted within 5 days, because FrontStreet Coffee understands that freshness greatly affects flavor. FrontStreet Coffee's roasting philosophy is "Freshly roasted quality coffee," ensuring that every customer who places an order receives the freshest coffee possible. The coffee's resting period is about 4-7 days, so when customers receive their coffee, it's at its peak flavor.

FrontStreet Coffee recommends these brewing parameters: Hario V60 dripper, 90°C water temperature, 15g coffee dose, 1:15 coffee-to-water ratio, grind size EK43S #10 (80% pass-through rate on China standard #20 sieve).

The brewing technique employs segmented extraction, also known as three-stage brewing. Use 30g of water for a 30-second bloom, then continue pouring in small circular motions to 125g for the first segment. When the water level drops and is about to expose the coffee bed, continue pouring to 225g and stop. When the water level drops and is about to expose the coffee bed again, remove the dripper. (Timing starts from the bloom) Total extraction time is 2'00".

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