Review | Comparison of Flavor Characteristics of 3 Kenyan Coffees | How to Brew Kenyan Coffee by Hand?

Kenyan coffee, like other African coffee origins, is renowned worldwide for its captivating acidity and aroma. Kenya is a tropical producing region with two rainy seasons annually, allowing for two harvests: 60% concentrated from October to December, and the remaining 40% from June to August. Coffee is primarily cultivated in volcanic soils at elevations of 1600-2100 meters around the capital Nairobi to the Kenyan highlands. The mountainous regions have lower temperatures and high-phosphate soils, where coffee grows slowly, allowing aromatic compounds to fully develop, resulting in more pronounced fruit acidity and harder bean density.

Currently, FrontStreet Coffee offers three Kenyan beans: 【Karatogito】【Assaria】【Hania】. Do they taste the same?

Growing Regions

Karatogito: Nyeri

Located in central Kenya, this region is home to the dormant Mount Kenya volcano. The red soil of this area nurtures Kenya's finest coffee. Agriculture is extremely important here, with coffee being the primary crop. Cooperatives formed by small farmers are more common than large estates. This region has two harvests, but coffee from the main season typically has higher quality.

Harvest period: October-December (main season), June-August (secondary season)

Hania, Assaria: Kiambu, Thika

Located in central Kenya, this region features the highest elevation coffee growing areas in the zone, with Thika being a secondary area. Situated at the foothills of the Aberdare mountain range, the soil is red volcanic soil rich in organic matter. The Kiambu region, due to its mild climate and moderate rainfall, features both estates and small farmers for coffee cultivation, though production is relatively small.

Harvest period: October-December (main season), June-August (secondary season)

Elevation

Karatogito: 1800 meters

Assaria: 1550-1750 meters

Hania: 1525 meters

Varieties

Karatogito, Assaria: SL28, SL34

Initially, Bourbon was brought to Kenya for cultivation. In the 1950s, the agricultural research institution Scott Laboratories selected and bred two excellent hybrid varieties: SL-28 and SL-34. Later, although SL28's yield was not as high as expected, its copper-colored leaves and broad bean shape produce wonderful sweetness, balance, and complex, varied flavors, along with distinctive citrus and black plum characteristics.

SL34 is similar to SL28 in flavor but, besides its complex and varied acidity and wonderful sweet finish, has a heavier, richer mouthfeel than SL28 and is cleaner. SL34 has French Mission, Bourbon, and more Typica bloodlines. The beans resemble SL28 but are better adapted to sudden heavy rains. These two important varieties have led us to understand the unique Kenyan style: strong, rich fruit acidity, full body, and beautiful balance.

Hania: French Mission Bourbon

French missionaries brought Bourbon trees to Kenya around 1892-1893. This original Bourbon variety is known as French Mission Varietal. During cultivation, it avoided scientific modifications, preserving the most original flavors of Bourbon.

Processing Methods

Karatogito, Assaria: 72-hour washed method

This method uses repeated cycles of fermentation followed by washing. On the day of harvest, the highest quality coffee cherries are selected for pulping and fermentation, which takes 24 hours. After 24 hours, they are washed with clean river water. Then, they undergo another 24-hour fermentation in clean river water, followed by washing again. This cycle is repeated 3 times to reach 72 hours, hence the name Kenyan-style 72-hour fermented washed processing, abbreviated as K72.

Such processing allows coffee beans to ferment for a long time at low temperatures, and finally undergo sun-drying dehydration to complete the process, enabling the beans to have brighter, cleaner, yet fuller flavors!

Hania: Refined natural processing

In refined natural processing, the already rich and varied acidic Bourbon coffee gains body and sweetness. This typically requires 2-4 weeks or even longer, depending on weather conditions and desired flavor expression. During drying, careful attention is needed to avoid both excessive temperatures and mold growth or off-flavors from over-fermentation.

Green Beans and Roasting

Karatogito: K72, double washed

Roasting: 2 minutes development after first crack, discharged at 191°C

Assaria: K72, double washed

A longer development time after first crack helps reduce acidity and develop flavors. Development time after first crack is 2 minutes and 10 seconds, discharged at 191.6°C.

Hania: African raised beds, natural

Roasting: First crack begins around 8 minutes 15 seconds at 186°C, simultaneously reducing heat and increasing airflow for flavor development, discharged at 194°C after 2 minutes.

Compared to Assaria, although Karatogito shares the same variety and processing method, its elevation is relatively higher, the beans are slightly harder, and the overall roasting time is extended with slower temperature rise. First crack occurs at 9'28", aiming to give Karatogito sufficient time for full development.

Hania, being Bourbon variety, is grown at lower elevations and naturally processed. The beans are smaller in size and slightly softer in texture. A slightly lower charging temperature avoids high-temperature scorching of the bean surface. The slightly flatter bean shape also allows for faster heat transfer, resulting in earlier yellowing and first crack points. During this period, heat reduction is applied multiple times to control temperature rise speed, avoiding an underdeveloped interior with an overcooked exterior. The discharge temperature is relatively higher, aiming to have sufficient heat to continue the Maillard reaction, producing more caramel, mature fruit flavors and a fuller body.

Cupping Notes

Karatogito: Clean entry with cherry tomato, berry and black plum acidity, good transparency. As temperature decreases, the acidity carries tea notes and caramel aroma, overall very refreshing.

Assaria: Wet aroma has ripe tomato and floral notes. Entry shows cherry tomato and black plum flavors, bright acidity, clean mouthfeel, medium body, prominent sweetness in the mid-palate with juicy sensation, finish has berry aroma and brown sugar sweetness, with green tea fragrance.

Hania: Dry aroma has natural fermentation, dried fruit and vanilla notes. When slurped, one can taste caramel, vanilla, mixed fruits with solid juice sensation. Finish has berries, rich jackfruit, and coffee flower aromas. Overall expression has wild African regional flavors, suitable for small sips to savor slowly, with complex aromas that are hard to resist.

Same brewing method for extracting a cup of coffee: 30g water for bloom, blooming time 30s, first stage small water flow to 120g, slow circular pouring. Second stage with slightly larger water flow, pouring to 225ml, 30-120-75, total extraction time about 2 minutes.

Summary

For those who prefer more acidity, recommend Assaria with its stronger tomato flavor.

For those who prefer more berry flavors, the natural processed Kenyan Hania.

For those who enjoy tea notes and black plum acidity, Karatogito.

Important Notice :

前街咖啡 FrontStreet Coffee has moved to new addredd:

FrontStreet Coffee Address: 315,Donghua East Road,GuangZhou

Tel:020 38364473