What Varieties Are Yunnan Small-Bean Coffee? Flavor Characteristics of Yunnan Red Honey Catimor Pour-Over Coffee
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In 2018, the owner of FrontStreet Coffee embarked on the familiar path he had taken several times over the past few years in Yunnan, planting the second batch of Arabica coffee. In fact, FrontStreet Coffee's coffee cultivation began around 2013-2014, half a year earlier than when they started roasting coffee.
FrontStreet Coffee was originally called "Dazhen Coffee." This name was chosen because we initially wanted to plant coffee in a place called Dazhen in Guangdong. After growing Catimor seedlings to 20cm, it took more than half a year to understand the relationship and sequence among three key factors: variety, altitude, and processing method.
The Foundation of Specialty Coffee
The relationship and sequence of these three factors are crucial. Selecting the right variety, planting at the appropriate altitude, and experimenting with processing methods after maturity to express unique flavors—this is what FrontStreet Coffee believes is the only logical relationship for specialty coffee to have distinct regional flavors. This is also the work recently led by the Yunnan Agricultural Department: establishing a flavor map of Yunnan specialty coffee.
This means identifying the regional flavors that Yunnan specialty coffee should naturally possess.
Why have Yunnan beans focused so heavily on processing methods in recent years? Actually, they're trying to bypass this three-factor relationship. Because the coffee varieties they planted cannot be changed, and neither can the altitude. Coincidentally, the market is also trending toward processing methods, so you'll find many Yunnan beans emphasizing their processing techniques.
Additional note: 99% of coffee planted in large quantities in Yunnan is Catimor, a hybrid of smaller varieties, because planting new varieties to flowering and fruiting takes four to five years.
Catimor
This approach of only changing processing methods while neglecting variety and altitude is both strange and quite normal.
Due to the aforementioned three factors, the owner of FrontStreet Coffee had to temporarily abandon the planting plan in Guangdong and began roasting coffee. Since the shop they found was located on Bao'an Qianjie, Dongshankou, Yuexiu District, Guangzhou, they renamed "Dazhen Coffee" to "FrontStreet Coffee."
At FrontStreet Coffee, while roasting coffee, we continued forward with our ideas about specialty coffee cultivation.
The owner also visited researchers with deep expertise in coffee cultivation, the Tropical Agricultural Science Research Institute (which houses the Ministry of Agriculture's coffee germplasm repository), and a few farmers who grow specialty coffee. He clarified why Yunnan doesn't plant mainstream specialty varieties like Typica and Bourbon, and through a fortunate opportunity, found a suitable piece of land near the Yunnan-Myanmar border.
Yunnan has no four seasons, only dry and rainy seasons, and most coffee-producing regions share similar conditions. This is also the fundamental reason why some regions use natural processing methods. Entering June marks the beginning of the rainy season in the producing regions, with rain expected for the next three to four months—this is the most favorable period for coffee cultivation. Only by planting seedlings during this time can they develop extensive root systems under the nourishment of rainwater to survive the first six-month dry season.
For this planting batch, FrontStreet Coffee chose Typica seedlings, with copper-colored new leaves being their characteristic feature. Typica yields are extremely low—only one-third of Catimor's yield—which explains why they are more expensive. Additionally, Typica and Bourbon are very susceptible to coffee leaf rust, which is one reason farmers are reluctant to plant Arabica varieties.
Typica
The Reality of Yunnan Coffee Cultivation
Only when you visit Yunnan's coffee-producing regions during the planting season can you truly experience what a rainy season means.
Sunny for a few minutes, then raining for half an hour—if the plantation is large enough, without rain gear, by the time you finish one tour, your clothes would have gone through several cycles of wetting and drying. In such weather throughout a day, you can't actually plant many coffee trees.
Several years ago, a major reason why Yunnan coffee couldn't become specialty coffee was: Catimor was too cheap and could only be sold as bulk commodity, at about 15-20 yuan per kilogram. The selling price could hardly cover harvesting and fertilizer costs, so farmers were unwilling to manage it properly.
Typica and Bourbon have low yields and are susceptible to diseases, making management costs higher and exploration time longer—not to mention whether unique flavors could be developed. On one hand, farmers lacked awareness of specialty coffee; on the other hand, even if they knew, cutting down old trees and spending several years replanting was something farmers would definitely avoid.
Transforming washed Catimor into red honey processed Catimor might increase the price somewhat, provided the immature market could accept it. The decline in Yunnan coffee prices in recent months despite praise for quality has already demonstrated this issue.
Despite facing numerous risks and difficulties, the owner of FrontStreet Coffee remains tireless because he clearly knows that from planting coffee trees to harvesting coffee cherries three to four years later, then experimenting with suitable processing methods and finally perfecting them—it takes at least five years to complete a basic goal.
Most importantly, when multiple locations began showing similar stylistic base notes, veteran coffee drinkers who have been enjoying coffee for years took one sip and thought, "Ah, this is the taste of Yunnan specialty coffee." Perhaps these winds and rains are just the beginning. Although five foundational years have passed, it can only be said that we've successfully grown Arabica coffee. Everyone focused on varieties, but no one could guarantee producing high-quality specialty coffee.
The owner of FrontStreet Coffee firmly believes there's no such easy thing in this world. After multiple rounds of variety selection and post-harvest processing experiments, several more years would pass.
The difficult path of specialty coffee always requires some people to explore. Trying might offer some hope. Without trying, it remains a blank space.
Yunnan Huaguoshan Specialty Coffee
About 5-6 years ago, FrontStreet Coffee began sourcing Typica from the Baoshan region in Yunnan, creating the [Yunnan Huaguoshan] specialty coffee bean that represents the characteristics of Yunnan coffee beans.
Product Name: Huaguoshan
Coffee Origin: Baoshan, Yunnan, China
Coffee Variety: Typica
Production Altitude: 1200M
Quality Grade: AA
Processing Method: Washed
Roast Level: Medium Roast
Baoshan, Yunnan
Baoshan, Yunnan is located in a low-latitude plateau. Due to its special geographical location, it forms a three-dimensional climate where "one mountain has four seasons, and ten miles have different weather." Such climate is particularly suitable for coffee cultivation. The Baoshan region has a long history of coffee cultivation and is recognized as the best small bean coffee producing area, making it one of the better coffee-producing regions both nationally and globally.
It can be said that the quality of coffee grown at the highest altitudes here can rival Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee. This area is also famous for producing the world's most expensive kopi luwak. In fact, as early as 1952, Baoshan began large-scale coffee cultivation, with a history of over 60 years to date. The region now has 5,000 mu of coffee gardens, making it one of Asia's best coffee-producing areas.
Yunnan's coffee cultivation history is quite long. As early as 1892, a French missionary brought coffee seeds to Yunnan and successfully planted the first coffee tree in a place called Zhukula.
The western and southern parts of Yunnan Province are located between 15°N and the Tropic of Cancer. Most areas have altitudes between 1000-2000 meters, with mountainous and sloped terrain, significant elevation changes, fertile soil, abundant sunlight, plentiful rainfall, and large temperature differences between day and night. These unique natural conditions create the special characteristics of Yunnan small bean coffee—rich but not bitter, aromatic but not intense, with slight fruit notes.
Data shows that in 2017, China's coffee export volume was 104,900 tons, with an export value of $646 million. Among these, Yunnan's coffee production reached 136,000 tons, accounting for over 95% of the national coffee production, with exports ranking highest in the country at 60,700 tons.
The coffee industry is also the most well-developed and mature market economy among industries led by the Baoshan municipal government since the founding of New China. To better develop this industry, Baoshan has made various attempts, including launching the Yunnan Baoshan Coffee World project.
FrontStreet Coffee · Roasting Demonstration
The bean moisture content is 10.9%, so the roasting plan is to start at 200°C, then use high heat and small air vent to speed up dehydration. After the dehydration phase ends, open the medium air vent and use medium heat to avoid rushing the Maillard reaction time. After first crack, develop for 3 minutes before dropping.
Temperature return point: 1'32", 92.5°C; Yellowing point: 5'40", 148.5°C; First crack: 8'59", 188.0°C; Develop for 3 minutes before dropping: 12'00", 196°C
FrontStreet Coffee · Cupping Results
Rich fruit aroma on entry, with melon and herbal plant notes. Smooth entry with nuts and milk chocolate in the middle section, followed by lively and bright plum acidity in the finish. Salivation on both cheeks, good balance, medium body with full texture. From hot to warm temperatures, you can feel the layers of sweet and sour—first sweet then sour. Acidity of apricot-peach and citrus tones, with black tea and some brown sugar in the aftertaste.
FrontStreet Coffee · Brewing Suggestions
Brewing Device: Hario V60
Parameters: 15g coffee grounds
Water Temperature: 90°C
Grind Size: Coarse sugar size
Water-to-Coffee Ratio: 1:15
FrontStreet Coffee · Brewing Technique
30g water for bloom, bloom time 30s. First pour to 120g, then pause. Use vertical water flow with small, slow circular motion. Second pour to 225g, with slightly faster water flow and circular speed to reduce fine particles clogging the filter and causing over-extraction.
Flavor Description: Rich but not bitter, aromatic but not intense, with floral notes, melon sweetness in the middle section, and black tea sensation in the finish.
Yunnan Small Bean Coffee
About 3 years ago, FrontStreet Coffee also began sourcing Catimor (small bean coffee) from the Baoshan region in Yunnan, creating the [Yunnan Small Bean Coffee] daily drinker coffee bean that also represents the characteristics of Yunnan coffee beans.
Region: Baoshan, Yunnan
Altitude: 1200m
Processing Method: Washed
Variety: Catimor
FrontStreet Coffee · Roasting Demonstration
Enter beans at 190°C with heat 120 and air vent 3. Temperature return point at 1'40", when temperature reaches 145°C, open air vent to 4, heat unchanged. When temperature reaches 166°C, bean surface turns yellow, grassy smell completely disappears, entering dehydration phase. When temperature reaches 188°C, adjust heat to 60°C, air vent to 5. At 8'37", bean surface shows ugly wrinkles and black spots, toast aroma clearly changes to coffee aroma, which can be defined as the prelude to first crack. At this time, listen carefully for the sound of first crack. First crack starts at 9'00", air vent unchanged. Develop for 3 minutes after first crack, drop at 198°C.
FrontStreet Coffee · Cupping Results
Smooth entry with Asian herbal plant aroma. Lively and bright acidity, salivation on both cheeks. Soft acidity, good balance between richness and body, rich layers. Aftertaste of dark chocolate, honey, and cane sugar with distinct flavors. After complete cooling, brown sugar flavors emerge.
Please Note:
1. Flavor descriptions vary by individual and are influenced by water temperature and brewing methods. This cupping report provides descriptions based on the flavor wheel limitations under the same brewing equipment and parameters, for reference purposes only.
2. Content will be promptly updated based on new information. The latest updates shall prevail.
FrontStreet Coffee · Brewing Suggestions
Filter: V60
Water Temperature: 90-92°C
Coffee-to-Water Ratio: 1:15
Grind Size: Medium-fine grind, fine sugar size (VARIO 50: China standard 20 mesh sieve pass rate 57%)
Flavor Description: Nutty aroma on the nose, with herbal, chocolate, and caramel notes on entry, and light fruit acidity in the aftertaste.
FrontStreet Coffee · Brewing Technique
Segmented extraction. Use 30g of water for 30-second bloom. When pouring to 124g with small circular motion, make a segment. Continue pouring to 227g when water level drops and is about to expose the coffee bed. Stop pouring. When water level drops and is about to expose the coffee bed, remove the filter cup. Extraction time is 2 minutes (timed from bloom start).
When speaking of Yunnan coffee, do you have a disdainful attitude? In fact, Yunnan coffee has developed quite well in recent years! More standardized, with complete varieties—including natural, dried, honey processed, high altitude, yellow Bourbon, and more. From bean varieties to diverse processing methods, it's no longer the Yunnan coffee of the past. Source from online information—Honey Processing: Honey processing is the method of making green coffee beans by removing the skin and pulp layers and drying them with the mucilage under the sun. After removing the outer pulp from coffee beans, there remains a viscous gelatinous substance.
Based on different pulp components removed and drying time, it's divided into:
1/ Yellow Honey Processing [approximately one week of drying]
2/ Red Honey Processing [approximately two weeks of drying]
3/ Black Honey Processing [more than two weeks of drying]
Among these, black honey processing is the most stringent. The labor costs for honey processing are as high as natural processing. Honey processed coffee has prominent flavors, presenting brown sugar sweetness and stone fruit aromas.
In South America, honey processed coffee is very popular. Honey processed coffee beans enhance sweetness and fruit flavors, with overall softness and balance.
Yunnan coffee's exploration of processing methods is praiseworthy and recommended.
High altitude with large day-night temperature differences allows sucrose from coffee cherries to accumulate, which is one factor why high altitude coffee beans have better quality than low altitude ones.
The mysterious nights at the border are fascinating. Bean-sized stars, deep blue sky, a bright moon, and of course, the sweet, fermented smell of coffee pulp and skin filling the valley will make you deeply remember this flavor, so that when drinking coffee later, you can confidently taste this note in certain single-origin coffees.
For more specialty coffee beans, please add the private WeChat of FrontStreet Coffee, WeChat ID: kaixinguoguo0925
Important Notice :
前街咖啡 FrontStreet Coffee has moved to new addredd:
FrontStreet Coffee Address: 315,Donghua East Road,GuangZhou
Tel:020 38364473
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For more professional coffee knowledge and coffee bean information, please follow Coffee Workshop (WeChat public account: cafe_style) - The pride of Chinese coffee people. When mentioning Yunnan, I believe that every artistic young woman will first think of it as having one of the world's most desirable tourist destinations - Zimo Manor in Lujiangba, Yunnan, China.
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