What are the Flavor Differences Between Panama Hacienda La Esmeralda Auction Geisha, Red Label, Green Label, and Blue Label Coffee Beans?

La Esmeralda from Panama is undoubtedly a household name in the coffee world. Not only is La Esmeralda the discoverer and promoter of Geisha flavors, but it's also one of the estates representing strict requirements in altitude grading systems. FrontStreet Coffee believes that achieving excellence in this aspect is something many estates should learn from. FrontStreet Coffee's planting site in Yunnan is divided into 5 different planting areas according to altitude and environment.

When chatting with guests, FrontStreet Coffee sometimes encounters customers asking why coffee bean quality should first be judged by its growing altitude. In fact, it's not just altitude, but also variety, processing method, and cupping score—these four aspects are the current standards for determining whether a coffee bean belongs to specialty coffee. The higher the altitude, the higher the grade. La Esmeralda's Geisha brand is classified by altitude, with auction Geisha selected from the highest altitude plots, while the Blue Label is the lowest altitude among La Esmeralda's Geisha grades (though still at 1500 meters).

FrontStreet Coffee has found that not only in Panama but also in other Central American countries, coffee bean grade classification is based on altitude, but the grading methods aren't as extreme as La Esmeralda's. La Esmeralda is divided into 3 major plots (mainly growing Geisha varieties), which are further subdivided into more than 5 small plots, each marked with altitude to satisfy the flavor preferences of different audiences.

Panama Coffee Development

Panama is located in Central America, connecting North and South America, bordering Costa Rica and Colombia. Panama coffee was first introduced by European immigrants in 1780, but coffee development wasn't good at that time, with coffee production being only 1/10 that of neighboring Costa Rica. FrontStreet Coffee found that coffee quality from other producing regions during the same period was generally average. In areas under European jurisdiction at the time, only coffee bean production was emphasized, while quality was neglected. However, during the second wave of coffee culture, countries began to focus on coffee quality. FrontStreet Coffee found that during this period, countries like Kenya and Panama were typical representatives, breaking out of old patterns through refined management and developing new coffee models.

After experiencing a period of poor quality, Panama's coffee gradually began to develop starting from the late 20th century. Because the United States helped Panama build canals in the late 20th century and also controlled it independently for a period, a large number of American elite talents moved south to Panama, partly for work needs and partly to explore business opportunities.

La Esmeralda, Panama

La Esmeralda is a witness to this era of elite trends. La Esmeralda is located in Panama's Boquete region, which is an important coffee producing area in Panama. FrontStreet Coffee has several coffee beans from the Boquete region, such as Mariposa coffee beans and Elida Typica, among others.

In 1964, American banker Rudolph A. Peterson retired, moved to Panama, and purchased La Esmeralda in Boquete. Later, his son Price resigned from his medical position to help his father manage the farm. In 1987, he introduced Caturra and Catuai coffee bean varieties, and in 1994 established a washing processing plant,从此拥有了自己的咖啡加工厂.

Currently, La Esmeralda mainly has three estates growing Geisha varieties: Caas Verdes, Jaramillo, and El Velo. In 1996, they acquired nearby Jaramillo, which had superior geographical environment and good original coffee variety flavors. El Velo was acquired by La Esmeralda in 2012. FrontStreet Coffee believes that La Esmeralda's strategy of acquiring estates with good quality and high altitude was unique at that time, which enabled La Esmeralda to occupy a certain position in the coffee industry.

Among them, the Jaramillo estate is the one growing Geisha varieties. Due to its low yield, the previous owner only used it as a windbreak tree until it was acquired and its extraordinary flavor was discovered. FrontStreet Coffee feels that this is precisely the charm of Geisha—the worse the growing environment, the better the flavor performance.

Although La Esmeralda initially discovered coffee beans with flavor characteristics, to achieve precision, they cupped coffee beans from different areas in the estate and determined planting plots based on altitude. This is why we now know the Red Label, Green Label, and Blue Label Geisha grades, all classified by altitude. FrontStreet Coffee will provide detailed explanations of this content below.

Starting from winning the Panama Best of Panama (BOP) competition in 2004, it achieved remarkable success. Later identified by experts, it was discovered that this coffee bean was the Geisha variety from Ethiopia. Afterward, the Peterson family focused most of their energy on developing infrastructure to support excellent batch separation and refined processing.

La Esmeralda's Plot Division

High-quality Geisha is mainly produced from the two plot estates of Jaramillo and Caas Verdes.

Jaramillo has an annual rainfall of 4000ml, with average daytime temperatures between 19-25°C and nighttime temperatures between 11-15°C, at an average altitude of 1600-1700m. The Jaramillo plot is subdivided into 5 small plots: Mario, Noria, Reina, Bosque, and Buenos Aires.

Caas Verdes has an annual rainfall of 3500ml, with average daytime temperatures between 16-23°C and nighttime temperatures between 10-15°C. The highly complex terrain structure, volcanic soil, and distinct day-night temperature differences give Geisha its aromatic characteristics. Currently, the Geisha growing area in Caas Verdes includes 11 small plots: Lino, Coronado, Fundador, León, Montaña, Trapiche, Jacinta, Cabaña, Tumaco, as well as Nido and Colga.

El Velo is the newest farm purchased by La Esmeralda in 2012. It is the highest altitude plot in the estate and the only area that has undergone detailed leveling. In addition to mainly producing Geisha, El Velo also grows over 400 coffee varieties purchased from CATIE, including Laurina, Pacamara, Mocha, and SL28, for long-term development and exploration.

Compared to the other two farms, El Velo's altitude extends from 1650-1900 meters up the mountain, with an average annual rainfall of 4000ml, average daytime temperatures between 16-25°C, and average nighttime temperatures between 11-16°C. The entire area covers 50.25 hectares of coffee planting land, of which Geisha planting area is 37.9 hectares, divided into 7 detailed plots: Guabo, Portón, Durazno, Mural, Higo, Buena Vista, and Águila.

Geisha Auction, Red Label, Green Label, Blue Label

FrontStreet Coffee understands that the biggest difference between La Esmeralda's marketing strategy and other estates is that based on cupping performance, planted varieties, and planting plots, they are divided into five major brands. Geisha varieties have three brands: Esmeralda Special, Private Collection, and Geisha 1500. Catuai varieties have two brands: Diamond Mountain and Palmyra.

Auction and Red Label Geisha

The Geisha produced by Esmeralda Special is what we commonly call the Red Label. Selected from Geisha beans grown at altitudes of 1600-1800 meters, with cupping scores above 90 points, produced from the two regions of Jaramillo and Canas Verdes.

The independent auction organized by La Esmeralda itself—the Geisha batches taken out for auction from the divided plots—are the auction Red Labels. However, there are also non-auction Red Labels on the market now, which are actually Geisha beans selected from the same plots that weren't put up for auction and then circulated in the market. The variety quality is consistent, but there are differences in selling price. This grade of Geisha uses natural or washed processing methods, with flavors featuring special, bright floral aromas and citrus notes.

Green Label Geisha

Private Collection, commonly known as Green Label, consists of non-independent competition batches—Geisha varieties that don't participate in auctions but still have excellent quality. Selected from Geisha grown at altitudes of 1600-1800 meters, produced from micro-batches mixed from different plots such as Jaramillo, Canas Verdes, and others.

Because of the mixed bean model, without detailed plot markings, sometimes the flavor similarity between Green Label and Red Label can be very high, but the next batch might show differences. Although the Green Label isn't as high-grade as the Red Label, it still carries the classic Geisha flavors—floral notes, fruit aromas, citrus acidity, and thick, juicy mouthfeel. Green Label Geisha also comes in both washed and natural processing.

Blue Label Geisha

The Geisha 1500 brand is what we commonly know as Blue Label Geisha. Selected from altitudes of 1400-1500 meters, produced from mixed beans from three different plots: Jaramillo, Canas Verdes, and El Velo. Flavors feature light floral notes, fruit acidity, and sweetness, with a less thick mouthfeel. Blue Label Geisha only has washed processing, but natural Blue Label was added in 2020.

FrontStreet Coffee summarizes the most obvious differences between Auction Geisha coffee, Red Label Geisha coffee, Green Label Geisha coffee, and Blue Label Geisha coffee: they differ in planting altitude and whether they use mixed bean models. High altitude (1600-1800 meters) with clear planting plot information are Auction Geisha coffee beans and Red Label Geisha coffee. Auction Geisha coffee reaches buyers through auction channels, commanding high prices and limited quantities. Mixed coffee beans from the same altitude plots as Red Label Geisha are Green Label Geisha coffee, while finally, the lower altitude (1400-1500 meters) are Blue Label Geisha.

Next, FrontStreet Coffee will compare the flavors of these three different grades of Geisha coffee beans through brewing.

Example: FrontStreet Coffee La Esmeralda Red Label, Green Label, Blue Label

Roasting Suggestions

When FrontStreet Coffee roasts these three different grades of Geisha coffee beans, the main approach is still to highlight Geisha's rich floral aromas and bright, changing fruit acidity characteristics, using light roasting methods. However, FrontStreet Coffee considers that each grade has different growing environments, so roasting details need corresponding adjustments.

[Red Label Geisha]

Entry temperature 150°C, yellowing point at 5'36", 147.6°C, first crack at 8'10", 175°C, development after first crack for 1'28", discharged at 189.5°C.

[Green Label Geisha]

Entry temperature 190°C, yellowing point at 5'00", 150.8°C, first crack at 8'30", 184.2°C, development after first crack for 1'30", discharged at 193.5°C.

[Blue Label Geisha]

Entry temperature 180°C, yellowing point at 5'20", 151.6°C, first crack at 8'30", 181.8°C, development after first crack for 1'28", discharged at 190°C.

Cupping Flavors

[Red Label Geisha]

Dry aroma: Jasmine, citrus

Wet aroma: Citrus, lemon, honey

Entry: Lemon, honey, berries, orange peel, mango, cream, citrus, tea sensation

[Green Label Geisha]

Dry aroma: Jasmine, ginger flower

Wet aroma: Lemon, sweet orange

Entry: Lemon, sweet orange, honey, cream, almond, tea sensation

[Blue Label Geisha]

Dry aroma: Floral, citrus

Wet aroma: Citrus, lemon

Entry: Citrus, lemon, honey, nuts, tea sensation

Brewing Suggestions

FrontStreet Coffee recommends using these brewing parameters: Hario V60 dripper, 90°C water temperature, 15g coffee dose, 1:15 coffee-to-water ratio, grind size (80% pass-through rate on China standard #20 sieve).

FrontStreet Coffee considers that these Geisha beans are all light roasted, and light roasted beans have lower coffee matter dissolution rates than dark roasted ones. Therefore, to ensure full extraction of Geisha flavors, higher water temperatures are used for brewing, while also choosing a finer grind size.

For grinding, FrontStreet Coffee determines this through sieving methods. According to the grinding recommendations for pour-over coffee provided by the Specialty Coffee Association (SCA), FrontStreet Coffee combines this with practical operation verification, using different grind sizes for brewing, and the finished products show significant differences. Moreover, each coffee bean's grind size will vary—this is the significance of sieving. If you don't have a sieve at home, FrontStreet Coffee suggests observing water flow speed to judge—if water flows too fast, the grind is too coarse; if water flows too slowly, the grind is too fine.

Brewing Technique

FrontStreet Coffee uses segmented extraction, also called three-stage brewing. Use 30g of water for 30-second bloom, then pour with small water flow in circles to 125g for segmentation. When the water level drops and is about to expose the coffee bed, continue pouring to 225g and stop. When the water level drops and is about to expose the coffee bed, remove the dripper. (Timing starts from the bloom) Extraction time is 2'00".

Flavor Description

[Red Label] Has bright rose and citrus aromas, brown rice, berries, apricots, complex fruits, honey, with a thick juice sensation, rich flavor layers, and noticeable sweetness.

[Green Label] Entry with rich jasmine floral aroma, high sweetness, citrus, berries, juice sensation, cream, green tea, orange peel, cantaloupe, overall rich flavor layers, with floral and citrus aftertaste.

[Blue Label] Entry has soft acidity of lemon and grapefruit. As the temperature cools slightly, there are oolong tea, honey, and sugarcane sweet aftertaste, with a relatively clean and bright mouthfeel.

For more specialty coffee beans, please add the private WeChat of FrontStreet Coffee, WeChat ID: kaixinguoguo0925

Important Notice :

前街咖啡 FrontStreet Coffee has moved to new addredd:

FrontStreet Coffee Address: 315,Donghua East Road,GuangZhou

Tel:020 38364473