Pour-over Gesha Village Estate Red Label Natural Gori Gesha Introduction - FrontStreet Coffee Gesha Pour-over Parameters Sharing
When it comes to Gesha coffee, it's quite renowned in the specialty coffee world, with a reputation no less impressive than Blue Mountain coffee. Some people describe Gesha this way: "Once you taste Gesha, you'll know your heart has been stolen by it!" FrontStreet Coffee will discuss Ethiopian Gesha Village Gesha and Panamanian Gesha.
The Origins of Gesha Village
The managers of Gesha Village Estate are documentary filmmaker Adam Overton and his wife Rachel Samuel. Years ago, while helping the Ethiopian government film a documentary about coffee, they encountered the Gera coffee forest in the Bench-Maji region. During this process, they not only rediscovered the greatness of Ethiopia's land but also developed the idea of establishing their own coffee estate and brand. They met Willem Boot from Panama's Don Pachi Estate in Panama and chose the origin of Gesha, learning from Panama's cultivation and management practices.
Eventually, they established "Gesha Village Estate" in the Bench-Maji region. They also divided the estate into specific plots, managed different varieties (Gesha 1931, Gori Gesha, and Illubabor), and categorized their products. Gesha Village's internal grading system includes Auction, Gold Label, Red Label, Green Label, and Chaka batches. Gesha Village includes three varieties: Gori Gesha, Gesha 1931, and Illubabor (Ethiopia's native disease-resistant variety).
Gesha Village covers a total area of 471 hectares. Since 2011, they have gradually expanded their cultivation area. As of 2017, the cultivated area reached approximately 320 hectares, making it one of the largest Gesha estates in the world. To better manage and refine coffee flavors, the estate owners divided Gesha Village into 8 major districts, and further numbered each batch within these districts.
Gesha Village's Grading System
Even the most top-tier estates produce coffee with quality variations. To live up to Gesha Village's "flavor reputation," the estate implements a strict grading system internally.
Auction Batches
Accounting for only 3.7% of Gesha Village's annual production, these are the estate's top batches selected through rigorous screening. They can only be obtained through the 2018 Gesha Village Coffee Estate Global Auction. The cupping scores for 2018 auction batches ranged from 88.15 to 92.67 points. These are further divided into Champion's Reserve and Farm Reserve.
Gold Label Batches
Comprising only 5% of Gesha Village's annual production, these are typically chosen by competition participants worldwide and purchased by roasters with high quality standards. They offer complete traceability, with each batch featuring outstanding flavors and high complexity, making them the second-best grade after auction batches.
Red Label Batches
These batches have complete traceability and possess typical Gesha Village flavors. Their flavor intensity and complexity are slightly less pronounced than Gold Label batches, making them single-origin batches with excellent value for money.
Green Label Batches
Coming from single plots and single varieties, these batches exhibit typical Gesha Village flavors, with flavor intensity and complexity slightly less pronounced than Red Label batches.
Chaka Batches
These are Gesha coffee blends produced by Gesha Village, including three varieties: Gori Gesha, Gesha 1931, and Illubabor (Ethiopia's native disease-resistant variety).
FrontStreet Coffee offers Gesha Village Red Label batches, which have complete traceability and typical Gesha Village flavors. Their flavor intensity and complexity are slightly less pronounced than Gold Label batches, making them single-origin batches with excellent value for money.
Panamanian Gesha: Hacienda La Esmeralda
Besides the various labels from Gesha Village, Gesha from Panama's Hacienda La Esmeralda also features Red, Green, and Blue labels. If Ethiopia is the birthplace of Gesha, then Panama is where it rose to fame. Panama, like an archway connecting North and South America while bridging the Pacific and Atlantic oceans, was always on the periphery of specialty coffee. In 2004, Panamanian Gesha first revealed its exceptional qualities, achieving victory after victory and proving to the world that Panama is not just an international strategic location but also the new champion of specialty coffee.
Hacienda La Esmeralda's current Gesha product line is divided into Red, Green, and Blue labels. However, starting from the 2021 harvest season, Hacienda La Esmeralda officially announced that they would no longer release the Blue Label series.
Hacienda La Esmeralda's Grading System
The Esmeralda Special series represents the highest quality Gesha coffee beans sold by Hacienda La Esmeralda. These are grown in specific plots at elevations between 1600-1800 meters, with each batch required to score above 90 points in cupping. This series typically comes from the two sub-estates of Jaramillo and Cañas Verdes (the Boquete estate has also produced Red Label series, but this estate plot is primarily used for exploring commercial viability, with many coffee varieties planted).
The Red Label's official name is "Esmeralda Special," translated to Chinese as "翡翠特选" (Emerald Special Selection). Another characteristic of Red Label batches is that each batch has an independent number, and all coffee beans in a batch come from a small plot. For example, FrontStreet Coffee's Red Label comes from the Jaramillo plot. This allows buyers to choose suitable batches based on their subtle flavor preferences.
The Green Label's official name is "Private Collection," translated to Chinese as "私人收藏" (Private Collection). According to Hacienda La Esmeralda's description of this series, it can be roughly understood that unlike the Red Label which emphasizes specific plots, this series emphasizes the signature flavors of Hacienda La Esmeralda's high-altitude Gesha coffee. This series is a blend of batches from various specific plots. (In fact, the Green Label can be roughly understood as a Red Label without plot separation.)
In terms of green bean appearance, Ethiopian Red Label Gesha and Panamanian Red Label Gesha also have significant differences. Panamanian Red Label Gesha's green bean characteristics are more easily recognizable: "pointed at both ends, elongated shape, plump and full-bodied beans, large particles." Ethiopian Red Label Gesha, on the other hand, is "slightly smaller in size, not as long in shape."
Comparing Ethiopian and Panamanian Gesha
FrontStreet Coffee has compared Ethiopian Gesha with Panamanian Gesha. Although they both have excellent acidity and fragrant floral aromas, in terms of specific flavor descriptions, they have distinct differences. Panamanian Gesha has obvious jasmine floral notes, citrus (berry) flavors, rich honey notes, and an overall gentle and comfortable profile. Ethiopian Gesha also has floral notes, but its main theme is very rich fruit juice sensations (orange juice), filled with Ethiopia's explosive fruit flavors.
Optimal Brewing Method for Gesha Coffee
Given the distinct flavor characteristics of Gesha coffee, how can we fully reveal its original qualities? FrontStreet Coffee has developed an optimal brewing method specifically for this purpose.
This brewing demonstration uses Esmeralda Red Label coffee beans. FrontStreet Coffee still chooses 15g of coffee grounds, paired with a Hario V60 small-sized dripper. In terms of grind size, a slightly coarser grind than FrontStreet Coffee's usual offerings will be used, with a 78% pass rate through a #20 sieve. This is mainly because Gesha beans are quite hard and tend to sink and clog the drainage holes.
Correspondingly, the coffee-to-water ratio is adjusted to 1:16. On one hand, this uses additional water to maintain the coffee extraction rate, while on the other hand, it adjusts the coffee concentration to between 1.15%-1.25%, which is the optimal concentration for experiencing the coffee's best flavors. The water temperature remains at 91 degrees Celsius.
During brewing, first pour 25ml of hot water for a 30-second bloom. Because Gesha beans are hard and their water absorption isn't as strong, pouring 25ml of hot water is basically enough to wet the entire surface of the coffee grounds. If more water is used for blooming, the excess water will simply drip into the lower pot. During blooming, use a gentler approach with a small water flow spiraling from the center outward for the best blooming effect.
After blooming, enter the second water injection stage. This stage requires pouring 120ml of water, spiraling from the center outward in a "mosquito coil pattern" to raise the coffee bed. The water injection should be completed in about 1 minute. Then wait for the water level to drop. Under normal circumstances, the water level drops at a uniform slow speed, reaching about the 1/2 mark in approximately 1 minute 10 seconds to 1 minute 15 seconds, forming a "bowl shape."
At this point, begin the final water injection stage. This stage involves pouring 90ml of water, circling around half the size of the water surface, completing the injection in approximately 1 minute 35 seconds. The remaining step is to wait until all the coffee liquid has dripped into the lower pot, then remove the dripper to complete the process. The total time is approximately 2 minutes to 2 minutes 5 seconds.
This brewing method will produce Gesha coffee that expresses rich floral and fruit notes, as well as the sweetness of fruit and honey, with an overall smooth and non-bitter profile. Friends who are interested should give it a try!
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