Kenya AA|The Flavor of Washed SL28, SL34 from Ndimaini Farm in Karatina Village

Kenya AA | Flavor Profile of Washed SL28, SL34 from Ndimaini Farm in Karatina Village

Kenya is a model country for producing exceptional coffee. Coffee was introduced by the British around 1900, and until the 1950s the varieties grown were limited to traditional Arabica, when Kenya developed the outstanding SL28 and SL34 Bourbon-related varieties it is known for today. All beans are processed using the washed method, and grading follows the AA PLUS, AA, AB system—which distinguishes only bean size and uniformity, not quality. The optimal growing altitude ranges from 4,200 to 6,800 feet. In 2009–2010, global warming and disease reduced production and pushed prices up. Since then, the steady rise of specialty coffee and Kenya's irreplaceable blackberry character have kept high-quality Kenyan lots at premium prices—which is why we make a point of sourcing the highest-quality Kenyan beans we can. These beans are relatively large, with a pronounced winey blackberry acidity, and can be harvested twice a year: April–June is the fly crop, while October–December is the main harvest.

Most Kenyan coffee is uniformly graded and inspected by the Kenya Coffee Board and then sold at auction. The public auction system dates back to before 1934 and operates through an agency system. Kenya has 50 licensed agents who send sample beans to their clients for cupping; clients bid on their preferred coffees through these agents at auction. However, this arrangement tends to let middlemen erode farmers' incomes. So in 2006, Kenya opened up direct sales: 32 independent marketing agents may now deal directly with foreign buyers without going through the auction, provided they meet Kenya Coffee Board standards for quality, storage, and bank guarantees. Both systems operate in parallel, and after years of development this has become one of the most transparent coffee distribution systems in the world—better coffees earn better prices through cupping, which encourages more cooperatives and farms to take part. That said, direct trade allows closer contact with farmers and first-hand information, which is why many roasters favor it.

The Gikanda Ndimaini farm in Kenya is run by a group of smallholder farmers who together form the Gikanda Cooperative Society alongside Kangocho and Gichathaini. Located in the Nyeri region at an average altitude of roughly 1,700–1,900 meters, the farm delivers its cherries to the dedicated Kangocho processing station for careful washing. The smallholders grow the traditional, unimproved SL28 and SL34 varieties, hand-picking fully ripe cherries and processing them washed on the same day. Before shipment, the parchment is milled and polished to remove the silver skin.

In recent years, Kenyan bean prices have remained high, yet the farmers themselves often earn less than $1 per pound. After deducting production costs, almost all of what remains goes to bank loans, leaving very little. The largest cut is taken by intermediaries and officials unwilling to see a more progressive and transparent Kenyan coffee trade. If you are willing, support Kenyan beans through the Fair Trade system—at the very least it represents transparent, fairly traded coffee. (A message from the coffee-producing regions.)

Farm Information

Farm: Gikanda FCS Cooperative, Ndimaini Farm

Grade: AA

Country: Kenya

City: Nyeri

Region: Karatina town

Altitude: 1,700-1,900 meters

Farm Size: Small plots cultivated by smallholder farmers

Soil: Red volcanic loam

Harvesting Method: Hand picked

Certification: Fair Trade

Variety: SL 28, SL 34

Processing System: Fully washed, dried on African raised beds

Top Jury Descriptions: Cupped at a roast level pulled 60 seconds after first crack (Cinnamon)

Tasting Notes

Aroma/Flavor: Strawberry, rose floral fragrance, almond, oolong tea, pear, jasmine, honey, caramel, brown sugar

Acidity: Blackberry and kumquat acidity, blackcurrant—clean and distinct

Complexity & Other: Fresh, fragrant wild notes; bright and clean; a distinct oolong tea aroma; fruity sweetness builds as the cup cools

Brewing Recommendation

Dripper: Hario V60

Water Temperature: 90°C

Grind Size: Fuji Royal grinder setting 3.5

Brewing Method: Coffee-to-water ratio 1:15, with 15 g of coffee. First pour: 25 g of water, bloom for 25 seconds. Second pour to 120 g, then pause. Once the water level drops to half the bed, continue pouring slowly up to 225 g total. Extraction time around 2:00.

Analysis: A three-stage pour clearly delineates the front, middle, and back-end flavors of the coffee. Because the V60's many ribs drain quickly, pausing between pours helps extend the extraction time.

FrontStreet Coffee Recommendation

If this washed Kenyan lot appeals to you, FrontStreet Coffee's Kenya Cherry Tomato is one of the best-known expressions of the washed style. Kenya excels at double-washed processing, and repeated rinsing and soaking draw out an extreme juiciness: bright cherry tomato, dark plum, snow pear, black plum, and yellow sugar flavors with a sweet-tart, fruit-juice-like cup that coffee enthusiasts adore.

For another washed lot with a completely different profile, the FrontStreet Yirgacheffe Guodingding Cooperative shows jasmine florals and bright citrus acidity, with green tea and honey tones after a medium-light roast—equally at home in pour-over, cold brew, or espresso.