Brazilian Coffee | History of Brazilian Coffee | Brazilian Coffee Regions | Brazilian Coffee Varieties

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World Coffee Tour - The Coffee Giant Brazil

When it comes to Brazilian coffee, everyone knows that Brazil is the world's largest coffee producer and also the world's second-largest coffee consumer (the first is the United States). So where does Brazilian coffee come from? What are the production regions and famous estates in Brazil? What are the main varieties grown and how are they classified? Today, the editor will share with you a world coffee tour - the coffee giant Brazil.

Geographical Conditions

Brazilian coffee is generally grown in relatively flat areas. To adapt to local conditions, Brazilian estate operators cultivated improved Arabica coffee trees decades ago that don't require high altitudes and shade, and can be planted on plains or grasslands, directly exposed to the hot sun, unlike traditional higher altitude shade cultivation methods.

Most Brazilian coffee plantations are only a few hundred meters above sea level, and even flat land is used for cultivation. This sun-exposed cultivation method allows coffee cherries to grow faster, with less complete flavor development, and the bean density, so-called hardness, is not as good as high-altitude beans. The fruit acidity is significantly lower, and the flavor is monotonous. Coastal Rio coffee even has iodine and salty flavors, which are considered to be the result of certain microbial activities. However, even when using the same soil for cultivation, this flavor doesn't necessarily appear every year. Most coffee enthusiasts don't appreciate this flavor, only a few Middle Eastern countries with sugar and boiled coffee habits are particularly suited to this Rio coffee flavor.

Production Regions

Brazil's main production regions include Minas Gerais, São Paulo, Bahia, and Espírito Santo. These four places account for 90% of the country's total exports. The commonly seen Santos and Mogiana come from São Paulo. Cerrado and Sul de Minas in Minas Gerais, due to their higher altitudes, mostly produce fine Brazilian coffee beans. Cerrado is located in the western part of Minas Gerais, as a flat plateau with an altitude of 750m-1200m. Sul de Minas is a hilly forest area with an altitude of 700m-1200m, and is Brazil's earliest coffee production area. Due to rising labor costs, most harvesting is now done mechanically, and it was also the first area where coffee was commercialized. We can see many large exporters established here. The Bahia production region in northern Brazil mainly produces washed Brazilian coffee, while the Espírito Santo region near the coast is the main export area for Brazilian Robusta varieties.

São Paulo State

Mogiana

This area is very close to southern Minas. Coffee is planted among bushes, grasslands, and other vegetation. In this area, there are many farming families, some of which adopt traditional large-scale farm operations, while others take small-scale modern approaches. Modern technology mixed with mountain coffee cultivation culture has created the highest quality green coffee beans.

Centro-Oeste / Central West

Coffee bean cultivation in this region generally combines large estates with traditional production lines. Although production seems to be decreasing, there is a greater focus on producing higher quality green beans.

Paraná State

Norte Pionerio do Paraná

This state was once Brazil's largest production area and currently has its unique production technology.

After discovering that the unit yield of coffee forests was decreasing, producers in Paraná created a new type of "closed cultivation system." Currently, large numbers of coffee trees per hectare can better resist cold winds while ensuring more regular yields.

Bahia State

Bahia / Atlantico Baiano

Mainly produces Robusta beans on large farms.

Chapada / Planalto da Bahia

This area is located in central Bahia and mainly produces hand-selected Arabica coffee. The washed processing method is mainly used.

Cerrado da Bahia

This area is located in western Bahia and is widely considered the newest Brazilian coffee cultivation area. Modern technologies for irrigation and harvesting are widely used in this region.

Espírito Santo State

This state is mainly divided into two areas. In the north, both large and small estates grow Robusta beans; in the south, typical mountain-grown coffee is produced, generally in smaller quantities. Both washed and natural processing methods are used in this region.

Minas Gerais

Sul de Minas

A small estate area producing about 8-10 million bags of mountain-grown coffee beans. Suitable altitude, undulating terrain, and climate favorable for coffee cultivation, with concentrated rainfall during the months when fruit needs to grow and dry climate during the months when harvesting is needed.

Cerrado Mineiro

Growing coffee in Cerrado (also called Savannah) is a triumph of Brazilian coffee technology. More and more large coffee plantations in Cerrado use high-tech for production, with very few areas having this situation. The plateau climate has four distinct seasons, and fruit matures very steadily, with no rain during the harvest season. Savannah coffee generally uses the natural processing method, which is also a current processing trend.

Chapada de Minas

In the northern part of Minas Gerais state, the area is very small, but the quality of green beans is world-class.

Matas de Minas

A very large area with a very diverse ecosystem and also Brazil's oldest coffee cultivation region. Its highest altitude areas are the best regions for processing coffee.

Rondônia State

Located in the western Amazon forest region of Brazil, adjacent to Bolivia, this area mainly produces Robusta coffee.

Rio de Janeiro State

Mainly grows Arabica varieties. Compared to other production regions, it has excellent port transportation advantages.

Cultivated Varieties

Brazil grows a wide variety of coffee varieties, both Arabica and Robusta. Smooth, low acidity, slightly sweet, and balanced are the main characteristics of Brazilian Arabica coffee. Although Brazilian coffee is generally considered to lack outstanding flavor characteristics, Brazilian coffee beans are the most suitable choice for blended coffee. If you want to create an elegant yet affordable blended coffee, Brazilian coffee is an excellent supporting choice. Using Brazilian coffee can balance other strongly flavored coffee varieties, such as the well-known Mamba coffee, Goba coffee, etc., all using Brazilian coffee as the best choice. At the same time, Brazil is also one of the most widely used espresso blend recipes.

Brazil currently relies mainly on Red Bourbon, Yellow Bourbon, Mundo Novo, and Catuai as its main varieties. Catuai, Acaia, Obatã, Aramosa, Pointed Bourbon, and others are also cultivated and researched. The Campinas Agricultural Research Institute in São Paulo is Brazil's famous coffee variety improvement arsenal, and the most widely grown Catimor worldwide is the masterpiece of Portuguese and Brazilian scientists.

Processing Methods

Due to its vast territory and huge production, Brazil has long used natural processing as the main method. The washed method cannot support such a large volume of coffee bean production, which has led to the industry's habitual thinking that Brazilian coffee is crudely made (but this doesn't mean all Brazilian coffee is cheap; the quality of coffee produced by famous estates is quite good). After 1990, Brazil advocated for the pulped natural method (also called semi-washed), which involves removing defective and floating beans through water channels, then using machines to peel off the skin and pulp and part of the mucilage, followed by washing, and finally drying in the sun or in drying rooms. Compared to the washed method, the pulped natural method saves water and labor, significantly improving the quality of Brazilian coffee and reversing the years of bad reputation for crudely processed natural Brazilian coffee.

Harvest Season

Most Brazilian plantations are harvested during the dry season from June to September.

History

Coffee was introduced to Brazil from French Guiana in the 1720s. Francisco de Mello Palheta, a Portuguese captain from Brazil, won the favor of the governor's wife of Cayenne, the capital of French Guiana at the time, and successfully brought coffee seeds into Brazil. Since then, coffee quickly adapted in Brazil, spreading from the north to the southeastern São Paulo state. By 1845, Brazilian coffee beans already accounted for 45% of the world's total coffee beans and became the main economic source for São Paulo state.

Crisis

Before 1990, the Brazilian government strictly monitored the coffee industry, with both harsh interference and price protection measures. The country had always implemented a minimum price protection policy for farmers, which led to coffee overproduction. By the early 21st century, due to lack of global regulation, world coffee production was far higher than consumption, and the country most severely affected was the giant Brazil. The 1940 European coffee market collapse almost destroyed the Brazilian coffee industry. The United States realized that if Brazil's economy collapsed and the pro-American government fell, Brazil would turn to a fascist regime, so it decisively bought all unsold coffee beans from 1941-1943 to resolve the crisis. Brazil finally managed to survive.

However, by the 1964 Cold War period, coffee production was severely oversupplied. Even though the Pan-American Agency proposed a series of policies to stimulate consumption, such as "coffee break time," coffee consumption was still just a drop in the bucket. The selling price of coffee was even lower than the cost price, which meant war for Brazil and even Latin American countries. Finally, under the pressure of the global coffee crisis, the "International Coffee Agreement" was born. This agreement, jointly signed by more than 60 coffee-producing and consuming countries worldwide, limited the import and export quantities of coffee in producing and consuming countries through a quota system, stabilizing coffee prices, and finally bringing dozens of coffee-producing countries, including Brazil, the longest period of stability. But the good times didn't last long. Brazil and other countries announced their withdrawal from the "International Coffee Agreement" in 1989 at the end of the Cold War. The coffee crisis remains the main culprit for the poverty and backwardness of most coffee-producing countries worldwide...

Important Position

Brazil currently has about 39.7 billion coffee trees, and small farmers now grow 75% of the country's total coffee production. Unlike in the past, Brazil's economy now depends less on coffee, with coffee accounting for only 8%-10% of GDP. Before World War II, Brazilian coffee production accounted for 50% or more of the world's total, and now it's close to 30%, but the country's influence on world coffee, especially on coffee prices, remains significant. For example, the climate disasters of 1950 and 1954 and the two frosts of 1975 and 1994 once caused sharp increases in Brazilian and even global coffee prices, making even the US government hold hearings to discuss solutions, showing the importance of Brazilian coffee in the global position.

Brazil Cup of Excellence (COE)

As mentioned above, coffee once reached a historical low price, and Brazilian farmers and green bean merchants all worked hard to fight against it. Due to the industrialization of Brazilian coffee production, a large amount of cheap but low-quality coffee beans were produced. To increase the income of working people and raise prices for roasters, the Cup of Excellence was born.

The Cup of Excellence originated from a United Nations organization aimed at helping farmers improve coffee quality and income, and creating closer connections between producers and consumers to fully enjoy the fruits of their labor. Many estates that were facing closure due to low prices at the time hoped to win in the Cup of Excellence to increase their value, thus striving to improve coffee bean quality. Therefore, the Cup of Excellence was originally created to save the depressed Brazilian coffee industry, but ultimately became a guarantee in our cups.

Brazilian Specialty Coffee Association (BSCA)

The establishment of the Brazilian Specialty Coffee Association in 1991 improved quality comparable to high-altitude extremely hard beans. With the assistance of the American Specialty Coffee Association, the first Brazil Cup of Excellence competition was held in 1999. Over the years, with the witness and guidance of international cuppers, the flavor has gradually reached its peak, and it has been praised as the coffee kingdom. Although Brazilian coffee is not as bold and expressive as Brazilians, its mild, lively acidity, and refreshing harmonious flavor can be compared to a hermit in the coffee kingdom.

Green Bean Classification System

Usually, we can see such information on the sacks of Brazilian coffee beans: Brazil NY.2 SC – 17/18 FC

This is Brazil's unique 3-stage classification method, not used by other countries, because the production area is too large and too many beans are produced. To prepare export-specific coffee flavors, these coffee beans are often mixed, resulting in inconsistent quality that needs "cupping" classification, so that consumers can generally know the quality of the coffee just by seeing the green bean information.

1. Classification by Defect Rate

Brazilian coffee uses a "deduction method" for evaluation, grading according to how many defective beans there are per 300 grams of main beans. There are seven levels from No.2 to No.8. If the deduction is below 4, it can be classified as No.2. Of course, beans with no defects can be called No.1, but this situation is rare and cannot maintain a certain supply volume, so Brazil sets No.2 as the highest level, not No.1.

2. Classification by Bean Size

Screen size: This is screened using a sieve based on 1/64 inch as the standard, with sieve sizes usually between 14-20. It should also be noted that the size corresponding to the screen size is the short side of the coffee bean, that is, the "width." The largest screen size for Brazilian coffee beans is 19, but production is not high, so 17/18 is considered the highest grade.

NY.2 SC-17/18
NY.2/3 SC-14/16
NY.3/4 DDQuality
NY.4/5 SC-14/16

3. Cupping Quality

Fine Cup
Fine
Good Cup
Fair Cup
Poor Cup
Bad Cup

FC (Fine Cup) and GC (Good Cup) are more common.

Many companies or platforms also add processing methods (natural/washed/honey) and estate information.

4. Flavor Grade

Brazilian coffee beans are classified into five major categories by flavor grade. They are: Strictly Soft → Very smooth, Soft → Smooth, Softish → Slightly smooth, Hardish → Not smooth, Rioy → Iodine flavor. Brazil-Cerrado coffee beans were cupped by the local coffee association as Strictly Soft Fine Cup (very smooth), which is the best grade.

In summary, Brazil NY.2SC – 17/18 FC Cerrado means: country Brazil, defect rate grade 2, green bean size 17-18 screen, cup quality excellent, from Cerrado. This is the Brazilian formula bean for the blended coffee we've been using~

The above image means: defect rate grade 2, green bean size 17-18 screen, very smooth taste premium coffee.

Culture

Brazilians are addicted to coffee, using exquisite small porcelain cups to pour a cup of very strong coffee, plus Brazilian-produced refined sugar cubes, making it sweet and delicious, refreshing and invigorating. Coffee poured into hot milk is a traditional breakfast drink throughout Brazil. Brazilians call breakfast "café da manhã" (morning coffee). Coffee is regarded by Brazilians as an energy source. The coffee color should be dark, the taste strong, mellow and delicious, preferably with a little more sugar, just as the Brazilian folk song says: "Coffee must be as black as the devil, as hot as hell, as pure as an angel, and as sweet as love." When in Brazil, don't forget to taste the rich and delicious "cafezinho"! Because for most Brazilians, drinking coffee is a habit, a pleasure, and a lifelong love affair.

Famous Estates

There are about 220,000 coffee plantations in Brazil, covering about 27,000 square kilometers, mainly distributed in the southeastern states of Minas Gerais, São Paulo, and Paraná. Below is just the tip of the iceberg...

Fazenda Esperança – Sul de Minas
Fazenda Ipanema – Sul de Minas
Fazenda Santa Inês – Sul de Minas
Fazenda Rainha – Mogiana
Fazenda Passeio – Sul de Minas
Fazenda Daterra – Cerrado
Fazenda Ouro Verde – Bahia
Fazenda Baú – Cerrado
Fazenda São Judas Tadeu – Bahia
Fazenda Santa Isabel – Sul de Minas
Fazenda Irarema – Mogiana
...and more

Finally, let's look at the brewing of our Brazilian Queen Estate Yellow Bourbon:

Brazil Production Region: São Paulo state near São Sebastião da Grama

[Owner] Regina Helena Mello de Carvalho Dias belongs to the Carvalho Dias family

[Variety] Yellow Bourbon

[Processing] Hand-picked, then pulped natural processing

[Region] Mogiana

[Altitude] 1400 — 1950m

[Processing Method] Natural

[Roast Level] Medium

[Flavor] Sweet beans, clean, black tea, smooth fruit sweetness, nutty flavor, balanced and smooth acidity, weak and clean bitterness, with rich chocolate aroma and nutty flavor, bright and refreshing taste, smooth and delicate texture.

[Pour Over Reference Parameters]

Brazil Queen Estate. 15g powder, medium grind (Fuji Royal ghost tooth #4 grind setting)

V60 dripper, 88-89°C water temperature, first pour 30g water, 30-second bloom,

Pour to 105g water and stop, wait until the water level in the powder bed drops to half before pouring again, slowly pour until 225g water, don't use the tail end, water-to-coffee ratio 1:15, extraction time 2:00

The above is this issue's content. Due to the large amount of information, thank you for your patience in reading. Coffee has gone through countless stories from seed to cup. It's not just a drink or a commodity, but the lifeline on which millions of coffee farmers depend for survival. Learning about the history, production, and culture of coffee is the best way for coffee practitioners and coffee lovers to understand coffee. I hope everyone can cherish every cup of coffee in front of them and be grateful for the efforts of everyone behind it~

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