Why is Yemen Coffee Production So Low? What Are the Flavor Characteristics of Yemen Coffee?

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Mocha and Mocha Coffee – many coffee beginners often find themselves confused about the distinction between these terms. Is Mocha the same as Mocha Coffee, or what connection exists between them? Mocha is actually an export port in Yemen, Africa. Coffee exported from this port came to be known as Mocha Coffee, and both the quality and flavor profile of Mocha coffee were exceptional. Let FrontStreet Coffee guide you through understanding this fascinating topic!

Yemen is located in Western Asia, just a stone's throw from the African continent. If Islamic scholars hadn't promoted coffee on the Arabian Peninsula, coffee might still be a wild plant growing in Ethiopia today. According to legend, coffee was introduced to Yemen in the sixth century when it was under Ethiopian rule and was named "Qahwa," meaning "wine" in Arabic. Later, when the Ottoman Empire invaded in 1536, they controlled the coffee trade. To protect export profits, authorities strictly prohibited the export of raw beans – seeds had to be boiled in water before leaving the country.

The History of Yemeni Coffee

Yemen, famous for its trade in frankincense and spices, is the world's earliest coffee-growing region and the birthplace of Mocha coffee.

If we trace back further, this is also said to be the place where Noah built his ark in biblical times.

This was also the domain of the legendary Queen of Sheba, who 3,000 years ago led a large delegation carrying gold and spices to Jerusalem to meet King Solomon and bore him a son. (It's rumored that this son became Ethiopia's first king)

Regardless, perhaps due to this ancient history, the people of this land are said to possess strong self-respect and extreme independence.

Yemen continues a lifestyle preserved from thousands of years ago, and there are reportedly many areas where the central government's authority cannot reach. Ethiopia, separated from Yemen by the sea, also used the port of Mocha to export coffee, which is why Ethiopian natural process coffees are often called Mocha (such as Ethiopia Harrar Mokka). Yemeni Mocha is the originator of the world coffee trade, and Yemen's contribution to spreading delicious coffee worldwide cannot be overstated. It was known as "Arabian Coffee" (Arabia), which later gave rise to the name "Arabica."

It is said that in the 17th century, Europeans first imported coffee and spread it to the world from the world's largest coffee port – the Port of Mocha. Today's "Port of Mocha" has not maintained its former prosperity, having become a historic port with only white sandy beaches remaining. Nevertheless, its name lives on through coffee, "famous far and wide."

Although Ethiopia was the first country to discover coffee, Yemen was actually the first country in the world to cultivate coffee as an agricultural crop on a large scale. In the early 17th century, the first batch of Yemeni coffee was exported to Europe via the ancient small port of Mocha, astonishing Europeans. Because all exported coffee bags had to be stamped with "MOCHA" to prove they were transported from the Port of Mocha, Europeans began calling the delicious coffee from Mocha port "Mocha Coffee." This is why early on, "Mocha" became synonymous with coffee.

Coffee Rooted in Dramatic History

Coffee represented trade, social interaction, and even religious focus, while also ushering in the coffeehouse era, promoting Yemen's export trade, and even becoming a sacred medicine for Muslim monks' prayers. However, coffee didn't only bring positive effects to Yemen – Yemeni coffee also suffered from controversial bans and became a victim of war.

From Al-Makha to Mocha

For its dramatic contribution to world history, Yemeni coffee originated from the port city of Al-Makha. Under the protection of the Ottoman Empire, Yemen carefully managed their caffeine products. By insisting on not selling live coffee trees or seeds, they awakened this sleeping port and established a global coffee monopoly.

Coffee from Al-Makha began to be called Mocha coffee, though today this name often refers to a chocolate-flavored coffee drink. Mocha is also one of the coffee varieties from Yemen. In cupping, SCA defines it as "generally similar in mouthfeel and flavor to Bourbon."

However, Yemen couldn't keep this secret for long: Dutch traders eventually obtained live coffee trees through other means. Within decades, coffee trees began being planted outside the Ottoman Empire and Yemen. The connection between Al-Makha port and Indonesia's Java island also created what is known as the world's oldest coffee blend – Java Mocha coffee.

As global coffee cultivation increased, Yemen's coffee monopoly empire declined.

One of the World's Driest Countries

Yemen is one of the driest countries in the world. Economically, the country currently relies on oil exports for three-quarters of its income, but the World Bank predicts that reserves will be depleted around 2017. This once self-sufficient agricultural nation now imports 80% of its agricultural products. Reasons include population growth and water shortages caused by local people over-cultivating "Qat" (also known as Arabian tea) – a crop with as long a history as coffee.

Qat is a common social drug among residents of the Arabian Peninsula. Yemenis enjoy welcoming guests in dedicated rooms in their homes, chewing Qat while chatting with friends. It contains the stimulant cathinone, with effects similar to mild amphetamines that refresh the mind. However, when the effects wear off, users feel depressed. Although the World Health Organization (WHO) hasn't classified it as a drug, many Western countries have already banned its import.

On the other hand, Yemen has long suffered from drought problems. Its major cities rely on underground water sources, with agriculture consuming 90% of drinking water, and Qat cultivation alone consumes significant water resources. Authorities predict that underground water reserves in the capital Sana'a will be depleted by 2017. Most Yemeni cities are built on high mountains, with residents depending on government or private wells for survival. The country has between 40,000 to 70,000 wells, some reaching 600 meters underground. Additionally, pumping water uphill is expensive, with the government spending up to $7 billion annually on drilling and pumping. Therefore, in recent years, locals have decided to ban Qat, which both wastes water and cannot satisfy hunger, replacing it with other crops. Coinciding with the rise of specialty coffee, the Yemeni government is now encouraging farmers to switch to coffee, which consumes half as much water as Qat.

Using the Most Primitive Production Methods

Authentic Yemeni coffee is quite rare. Farmers hand-pick the fruits when they ripen on the trees and dry them on the roofs of stone houses built along mountainsides. The processes of pulp removal and hulling rely entirely on simple stone grinding equipment. Due to poor transportation, coffee typically changes hands multiple times, mixing beans of varying sizes and ages. Combined with numerous defects and improper processing, Yemeni coffee struggles to meet specialty grade standards by modern cupping criteria. However, high-quality Yemeni coffee offers unique flavors: complex Middle Eastern spices, cured meat, ripe fruits, wine notes, and cocoa, with a rich mouthfeel and strong sweet aftertaste. Like durian and stinky tofu, it elicits extreme reactions – people either love it or hate it.

Coffee Cultivation

Due to the very narrow steep slopes, valleys, and lowlands available for cultivation in the mountains, coffee farmers adopt a distributed cultivation method – planting a few trees wherever suitable land is found, regardless of whether it's wilderness, cliffs, or barren valleys. Experts point out that the diversity of growing environments and microclimates creates the myriad aromas and fruit acids of Yemeni coffee. Some joke that in the same bag of Yemeni coffee, you can't find two beans with the same flavor, making it a truly "wild" specialty coffee.

This is because Yemeni coffee is scattered across cliffs, valleys, lowlands, wilderness, terraces, plateaus, and mountains. Even the same variety can develop different aromatic characters due to different microclimates and soil conditions, not to mention the numerous varieties of Yemeni coffee. Experienced Yemeni coffee farmers can identify coffee varieties and flavor characteristics simply by knowing which mountain, steep slope, terrace, village, or region the coffee comes from. In contrast, Brazil's monotonous flavor, resulting from large-scale cultivation of single varieties in the same plains or hills with uniform terroir, cannot compare.

Yemen is dry and water-scarce, resulting in relatively small, pale green or light yellow coffee beans. After harvesting the red fruits, farmers place them on farmhouse roofs to dry in the sun for two to three weeks until the coffee cherries naturally harden.

During this time, fruit pulp essence seeps into the beans inside the pods, enhancing flavor. After three to six weeks, depending on the hardness of the dried fruit, farmers use traditional grinding stones to crush the dried pulp and pods and extract the coffee beans. (Yemeni coffee beans, besides being smaller, often appear broken or chipped due to the grinding stones). Additionally, Yemeni beans are harder and more brittle than regular coffee beans, and collisions during transport can also cause breaks or damage. Therefore, pre-roasting bean selection cannot be skipped – these broken beans must be removed to prevent spoilage that would affect flavor.

Cultivation Varieties

Mainly Ismaili, Typica, and Matari varieties. The true variety of Yemeni Mocha coffee is called Udaini. It is not only an ancient Typica variety but also one of the most common and oldest coffee varieties in Yemen. The beans are very small, and some call them "small Mocha." Mocha is a flat bean, not a round bean – small but aromatic and rich.

Coffee Growing Regions

Mokha Mattari

A famous coffee market name from the Bani Mattar (also spelled Bany Mattar) province west of Yemen's capital Sana'a. It's high-altitude coffee, typically exhibiting good red wine aroma, dried fruit flavors, full body, and often displays chocolate bittersweetness when dark roasted. High-quality Mattari beans are small, with prominent sweet wine fragrance and appropriate ripe fruit fermentation notes in their raw state. It always emerges as a winner due to its more distinct Yemeni style. Altitude: approximately 2000-2400 meters.

Mokha San'ani

A broad market name for coffees from growing areas west of Yemen's capital Sana'a. It's a blend from tens of thousands of small farms on mountain slopes near the capital Sana'a. Cultivated at slightly lower altitudes than Mattari, it generally has a lighter body than Mattari, lower acidity, but good fruit aromas, often with better ripe fruit and wild characteristics than Mattari. Altitude: approximately 1650 meters.

Mokha Ismaili

One of the traditional ancient tree varieties, some also say it's a region. A market name for a famous coffee from central Yemen, also described as a traditional botanical classification of Yemeni coffee with high beverage quality. Planted at very high altitudes in rugged mountainous areas above 1981 meters, characterized by rounder beans with more inconsistent sizes, smaller than Mattari beans, full body, and high complexity. It often outperforms Mattari. This is the least produced and most expensive Yemeni Mocha (Yemeni Mocha is already not cheap). High-quality Mokha Ismaili is produced in the high mountain slopes of the Hirazi region (though less famous than Bani Matar, it's the best-regarded growing region locally in Yemen). The highest altitude in Hirazi reaches 2438 meters!

Mokha Rimi

Produced in the Djebel Remi (also known as Raimi, Rayma) region, quality similar to San'ani. Mokha Rimi typically has slightly heavier fermentation notes, occasionally displaying surprisingly rich raisin sweetness. When properly roasted, the coffee beans smell like opening a bottle of rich fruit jam.

Mokha Yafeh

Produced in the southern Yafeh (also known as Yaffe) province of Yemen, this is an uncommon Yemeni Mocha and the only "southern flavor" in Yemen. Production is also limited, with most exported to neighboring United Arab Emirates, making it rarely seen in the international specialty coffee market.

Arabian Mocha

A single-origin coffee from the mountainous regions of Yemen on the southwestern Arabian Peninsula bordering the Red Sea. One of the world's finest cultivated coffees, known for its high viscosity and distinctive rich wine-like acidity.

Yemeni Mocha achieves different styles depending on the growing region, just as Mattari represents chocolate and acidity, while San'ani Mocha represents wildness and fragrance.

Confusing Nomenclature

Yemeni coffee naming still lacks universal standards, and there's no official grading system. Local residents have their own classification system with hundreds of coffee codes and names for internal purposes, but these aren't applicable to the commercial market (for export). In the commercial market, Yemeni Mocha typically adopts one of two naming approaches: "origin name" or "variety name."

Yemeni Mokha Mattari and Yemeni Mokha San'ani use the "origin naming method," indicating production from Bani Matar province and mountain slopes near the capital Sana'a respectively. Yemeni Mokha Ismaili uses the "variety name method," with its production location in Hirazi, southwest of Bani Matar.

Processing Methods

Ancient Natural Processing

Yemen is the classic example of ancient natural processing and the world's only entirely natural-processed coffee-producing country. The traditional water-free processing method has remained unchanged since the 17th century when Europeans first became captivated by wild Mocha. This relates to Yemen's extremely dry climate – coffee is mainly grown in the central highlands with annual rainfall of only 400-750mm, far below the optimal 1,500-2,000mm for Arabica.

Yemeni coffee grows on rugged terrain with little rainfall, poor soil, and insufficient sunlight – uniquely difficult conditions unfavorable to coffee cultivation, yet these conditions have produced the irreplaceable Yemeni Mocha of the coffee world. The main coffee-growing regions are Sanani, Matari, and Ismaili.

The Matari region is located in the highlands west of the capital, at altitudes of 2000-2400 meters, making it the highest altitude growing region in Yemen, but also the most remote with poor transportation. After harvesting, farmers often have to wait a considerable time before they can transport the coffee out.

The water-scarce environment prevents farmers from introducing more advanced washed processing methods. The wild flavor surpasses Harar coffee, making Yemen the best choice for experiencing ancient flavors.

The central highlands of Yemen feature undulating, rugged, and treacherous terrain. Small farmers mostly adopt a distributed cultivation method – a few plants on steep slopes, dozens on terraces or cliffs, each with different terroir and microclimates, resulting in different aromatic components.

Yemeni farmers' natural processing is rougher than Ethiopia's – they dry it directly on rooftops! This differs from the refined natural processing of Yirgacheffe or Sidamo, where red cherries are spread on "raised African beds," and is the main reason for Yemen's particularly wild flavor.

Yemen's ancient natural processing involves hand-harvesting fully ripe coffee beans, then placing the freshly harvested beans directly in dedicated coffee drying areas or compacted earthen front yards to sun-dry. During the drying period, the beans are typically raked with wooden tools to ensure even drying. After about twenty days, once the coffee is dry, the outer pulp and skin are removed to extract the coffee beans.

Yemeni coffee offers rich, complex, wild, full-bodied flavors with strong fermentation characteristics and lower acidity. Additionally, Yemeni coffee often contains an unpredictable factor (timing of seasonal rainfall) that makes it elusive, making it truly one of the world's most special coffees.

Refined Natural Processing

Mokhtar Alkhanshali has also enhanced the beans from the Port of Mocha with more refined natural processing, and the beans from the Port of Mocha speak for themselves through flavor.

Representative Coffee: Yemen Mocha Mattari

Country: Yemen

Region: Mattari

Altitude: 1,300~1,900m

Varietal: Typica, Bourbon

Process: Natural / Sundried

FrontStreet Coffee Yemen Mocha Coffee Beans

Cupping Report:

Medium Roast City (Caramel Aroma): Before grinding, the coffee beans emit a peanut fragrance. After grinding, they reveal caramel aroma. During cupping, complex layers unfold with a hint of grape acidity appearing towards the finish. The spicy aftertaste is long-lasting, with a sweet, mouth-watering, rounded quality reminiscent of Middle Eastern milk tea that persists for a considerable time. The cup bottom residue shows malt sweetness. Medium-roasted Yemeni Mocha continues to evolve – we recommend brewing 7-14 days after roasting when the complex, wild fermentation flavors are at their best.

Filter: V60

Water Temperature: 88°C

Grind: Medium-coarse

Roast Level: Medium roast

Brewing Recommendations:

15g coffee, ground with Fuji Mountain "ghost tooth" grinder setting 4, V60 dripper, water temperature 88-89°C. First pour 30g water for 25s bloom, then pour to 104g and stop. Wait until the water level drops to halfway, then continue pouring slowly until reaching 220g. Avoid the last 5g. Water-to-coffee ratio 1:15, extraction time approximately 2:00 (counting from completion of bloom pour).

Flavor: Balanced, chocolate, persistent caramel sweetness in the finish.

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