The Story of Guatemalan Coffee Cultivation: The Flavor Profile of Acate nan Santa Felisa Estate's Orange Honey Process?

The Story of Guatemalan Coffee Cultivation: The Flavor of Finca Santa Felisa's Orange Honey Process and How to Brew It Perfectly

Finca Santa Felisa is a renowned organic coffee estate in Guatemala, founded in 1904 by Trinidad E. Cruz in the Maya Kakchiquel region of Acatenango. For over a century the Cruz family has coexisted peacefully with the Maya people. Because of their integrity and their kind treatment of indigenous people, the Maya Kakchiquel continue to work for the family on the estate today, and the Cruz family has now entered its fourth generation. One reason I admire the current leaders, Anthony and Anabella, is their genuine kindness toward the Kaqchiquel people.

Among the estates I have visited, only Anabella personally introduces all the workers to buyers. During the introductions she explains their responsibilities and highlights their excellent qualities. The process is heartwarming, and these are truly the people who deserve credit in the orchards and the processing facilities. Typically, estate owners introduce only the processing supervisor or the harvest foreman.

Anabella told me: "I'm proud of these colleagues. They not only harvest ripe cherries carefully but also handle post-processing exceptionally well."

In 2013, after four rounds of cupping, I decided to introduce four processing methods from Finca Santa Felisa. I asked the siblings why they pursued so many different methods.

Anthony said: "Customized post-processing should be the trend. After the first auction in 2011, we found that roasters around the world have different flavor preferences and needs. We examined the performance of different processing methods on the estate one by one; it was a long experiment and a test of patience. The cupping results surprised everyone with the flavor expression. It was hard work, but worth it."

That year, 2013, Anthony invited me to join the cupping team. In April 2013 I selected Orange Honey, Kenya Process (K72), Ethiopia Process and Natural Process as the year's highlights. This batch is Orange Honey processed. The essence of honey processing lies in preserving the sweetness and flavor of the mucilage layer, and the detailed operations have evolved to the point where every producer can develop their own technique. As for effectiveness, it still takes on-site cupping to verify. Finca Santa Felisa's Orange Honey method is as follows:

Harvest coffee cherries with a ripeness level above 20, wash them and soak them directly in clean water tanks overnight. The next day, remove the fruit pulp. The color of Orange Honey is lighter than typical honey processing, which creates its distinctive flavors.

Because of the high altitude of the Acatenango volcanic region, the cherries mature slowly. The acidity therefore stays bright while the sweetness becomes more balanced and the overall flavor more mature. This gives high-quality coffee from the region its fullness and balance. During cupping it is often surprisingly delightful, a feeling I had strongly when visiting the region in 2007.

Acatenango Coffee Region

Acatenango became Guatemala's eighth coffee region in 2007. We translate it as Acatenango Valley. The region lies in Guatemala's Chimaltenango province, with more than 5,000 hectares of coffee farms on fertile volcanic soil, mainly between two major volcanic ranges. Almost every area has forests and shade trees, and as the photo above shows, the estates almost all use shade cultivation. The main variety is still Bourbon, with some Catuai and Caturra. Acatenango's two major volcanoes are Volcan de Fuego and Volcan Acatenango. Acatenango is in fact the third-highest peak among Central American volcanoes, and crossing the Fuego volcano leads to Lake Atitlan.

Annual rainfall ranges from 48 to 72 inches, with average annual temperatures between 14°C and 31°C. The large temperature difference produces dense beans, which benefits flavor development. The main harvest runs from mid-January to March. The Kaqchiquel people still live in the region and keep traditional farming methods. Finca Santa Felisa maintains good relations with them and treats them well, so the estate's farming operations are handled by this community, and they coexist harmoniously. The region has about 4,000 farming households, and coffee cultivation dates back to 1880. Finca Santa Felisa was established in 1904, and with its higher altitude it is also considered a pioneer of Acatenango.

Coffee Details

Country: Guatemala

Region: Acatenango

Province: Chimaltenango

Estate Name: Santa Felisa Estate

Production Batch Name: Orange Honey

Harvest Season: February 2013

Variety: Typica

Grade: SHB

Altitude: 1,650 meters

Temperature Range: 17°C to 24°C

Average Annual Rainfall: 1,200 - 1,500 mm

Region: Acatenango Valley®

Estate Owner: Antonio Meneses Cruz

Processing Method: Orange Honey process, with natural sun-drying in the final stage, consistent processing at the estate facility.

Cupping Information: O-She roast level M0, roasting time 12 minutes, stopped at mid-first crack

Dry Aroma: Honey, floral notes, berry

Wet Aroma: Sugarcane, floral, berry, chocolate, herbal coolness

Sipping: Good cleanliness, delicate malic acid and sweet lime, honey sweetness, smooth texture, chocolate, floral, juicy sensation, spicy sweetness, balanced and round with persistent aftertaste.

FrontStreet Coffee's Brewing Recommendations

V60 dripper, 15g coffee grounds, water temperature 90°C, grind level 3, water-to-coffee ratio close to 1:15

30g water for bloom, bloom time 30s

Pour in stages: add water to 110ml, then stop. Wait for the water level to drop to one third, then slowly add water again until reaching 225ml and stop.

That is: 30-120-225g

FrontStreet Coffee Recommendation

Honey processing is the perfect counterpoint to a coffee like Santa Felisa's Orange Honey, and FrontStreet's Costa Rica Blackberry is a good example. It uses black honey processing, which leaves almost all of the mucilage on the bean, dries for at least two weeks under cover to keep the sugar converting evenly, and is turned at intervals to prevent overheating and over-fermentation. A light-to-medium roast gives a strong floral aroma in the grounds and a cup of grape, berry and ripe blackberry notes.

FrontStreet Strawberry Candy is a Geisha blend that pairs Panama Geisha with Costa Rican coffee processed by raisin honey, retaining 100% of the mucilage with no water used. The cherries are floated to remove underdeveloped and overripe fruit, dried on raised beds for at least three days, then depulped and dried further with the mucilage kept on, turned constantly for evenness. The result keeps the Geisha floral and tea character while adding raisin and dried blueberry notes, soft fruit acidity, an almond finish and clear sweetness.

For a more aromatic honey cup, try FrontStreet Costa Rica Mozart. Its raisin honey method dries the whole fruit on raised beds for at least three days before the skin and pulp are removed and the honey steps continue, which demands tighter timing control than even black honey. It brings richer dried-fruit sweetness, and whether brewed as pour-over, cold brew or moka pot it shows distinctive osmanthus, pineapple and raisin aromas.