Introduction to Colombia's Finca La Cabana Estate - Colombian Coffee Introduction

Colombian Coffee Geography and Grading

Three cordilleras run north to south across Colombia, forming part of the Andes chain. Coffee farmers cultivate the highlands along these ranges, and the varied terrain gives them a wide range of microclimates to work with. Because elevation and landform differ so much from region to region, Colombia's coffee sector is dominated by smallholder farms rather than large plantations.

Unlike Central American producing countries, which typically grade by the altitude at which the coffee was grown, Colombia classifies its green coffee by bean screen size. Supremo, the top grade, consists of screen 17 beans and larger. The next grade down, Excelso Extra, is made up mainly of screen 16 beans.

Finca La Cabana Estate

Finca La Cabana sits deep inside untouched forest, where mountain infrastructure is minimal. Finding the farm is a challenge in itself: most visitors have to search for a while before they locate the right mountain. You can only drive as far as the road allows, from there it is a 20-minute walk to the washing station. Once you arrive, the wild, untamed way the coffee trees grow feels strikingly similar to what you see across Ethiopia's coffee forests.

Farm Management and Processing

The farm has been in operation for more than 80 years and is now run by its third generation. Compared with other estates dedicated to specialty coffee cultivation and processing, Finca La Cabana, eight years into its specialty transition, still lags behind in management, largely because of its terrain and remoteness. Infrastructure is basic at best: power outages are frequent, and the washing station rarely uses cement fermentation tanks. Even so, the team works around these limitations to produce high-quality coffee.

During harvest, at around 4 PM, all fresh cherries are hand-sorted and graded before being depulped. The beans then undergo 24 hours of dry fermentation, followed by 3–4 washing rounds and another hand sort to remove any low-density beans. From there the coffee is laid out on raised drying beds for 24 hours of shade drying, then moved to a drying room, where it finishes over 20–30 days.

Brewing Recommendations

FrontStreet Coffee's recommended brewing parameters:

Pour-over: V60 dripper, Fuji Royal R440 grinder at setting 3.5, water at about 90°C.

French press: grinder at setting 4, water at 90°C.

Siphon: grinder at setting 4, water between 90°C and 91°C.

AeroPress: grinder at setting 3.5, water at 90°C.

FrontStreet Coffee Recommendation

Colombian coffee is remarkably versatile. It works just as well in espresso blends as it does as a single origin for pour-over: some lots lean toward bright fruit acidity, others toward a heavy, full-bodied cup, and some are prized mainly for their aromatic character. Whatever style you prefer, there is a Colombian coffee to match, which is why it suits such a wide range of drinkers.

FrontStreet Coffee Colombia Huila: the province of Huila, in the southern reaches of Colombia's central cordillera, is the country's most celebrated specialty coffee region. It is a landscape of rolling hills ringed by mountains, planted at elevations above 1500 meters, and the confluence of Colombia's most important rivers brings abundant water and humidity to the area. To get a feel for the region, try FrontStreet's washed Huila beans. A medium-dark roast brings out dark chocolate and nutty sweetness, with moderate body and a smooth, rich mouthfeel. It performs beautifully as a pour-over or French press, but it also shines through a moka pot or espresso machine, pulling Americanos and lattes is no trouble at all.