Introduction to Yunnan Coffee from the 2018 Harvest Season - Flavor Changes in the New Coffee Crop
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First Encounter with Yunnan Coffee
It wasn't until my first visit to Yunnan in 2000 that I discovered the province produces coffee. I visited several cafes in Lijiang Old Town to taste this fresh coffee, but unfortunately, it was all quite weak—worse even than instant coffee. After asking the young staff at the cafes, I learned they were all using mesh filters to brew coffee, which naturally resulted in a weak brew.
Yunnan Small Bean Coffee
Yunnan small bean coffee is one of only two domestically produced coffees in China, with the other grown in Hainan and also produced in limited quantities. Yunnan coffee grows in highland mountainous areas at altitudes of 1,000 to 1,400 meters, with long growing seasons, slightly poor soil, pure air, and abundant sunshine. This environment produces full-bodied coffee beans with unique flavors and is genuinely a green product. What's most unique about Yunnan small bean coffee is that the beans are slightly smaller than typical Arabica beans, hence the name "small bean coffee." However, some estates have now improved their varieties and produce normal-sized beans, which have better aroma and mouthfeel, yet they continue to use the "Yunnan small bean coffee" designation. As far as I know, 70% of Nestlé's instant coffee consists of Yunnan small bean coffee beans—chosen for their affordability, rich aroma, light bitterness, and slight acidity.
Quality Issues in the Market
Commercially available Yunnan small bean coffee products have many problems. For instance, coffee beans sold in supermarkets in Lijiang and Kunming are not packaged in vacuum bags with one-way valves, but instead use ordinary vacuum plastic bags, or even cloth or paper bags, which is frankly ridiculous. Such coffee beans easily lose their flavor, absorb various off-flavors, and develop insects or mold. This practice is truly wasteful of natural resources and dishonest to consumers. Companies have an obligation to educate and guide coffee enthusiasts' consumption. Coffee beans and ground coffee are truly fresh foods, and their preservation is no easier than keeping live fish or fresh meat, because improper storage can lead to impure aroma, diluted concentration, astringency, and sourness. Coffee like this will only be rejected by consumers. Over time, this will damage consumers' impression of Yunnan small bean coffee and affect its reputation.
FrontStreet Coffee's Approach
FrontStreet Coffee's Yunnan small bean coffee is roasted in small batches as needed, with designated roasters in Kunming who create it according to Lijiang's special environmental conditions. Lijiang presents three special requirements for coffee. First, the high altitude lowers the boiling point of water—water boiled with ordinary electric kettles or gas stoves reaches only 83°C. Second, the local water has weak alkaline properties. Locals say the water "holds oil" and easily causes internal heat in the body. This water neutralizes the acidic substances in coffee when used for brewing. Third, the local water has high mineral content and easily forms scale.
Therefore, making a good cup of coffee in Lijiang is quite challenging. After two years of experimentation, we've adopted different roasting techniques for our Yunnan small bean coffee—a slightly darker roast with a re-roasting process that allows the coffee to release rich aromas at lower water temperatures while maintaining rich acidity layers. For brewing, we don't use coffee machines but employ entirely manual methods: hand grinding, using both moka pots and siphon brewers, and softened water. The coffee brewed this way is truly a pleasure to drink.
Tasting Experience
When tasting Yunnan small bean coffee, you first experience a light, sweet bitterness, while your nose detects a coffee aroma reminiscent of flowers. There's a hint of light acidity on the sides of the tongue. As you continue tasting, the acidity spreads to your cheeks, but it's very light and subtle. If you enjoy stronger coffee, you'll feel a powerful pulsing in your temples and heart that creates excitement.
Brewing Recommendations
It's best to drink Yunnan small bean coffee without sugar, as it's not inherently bitter, and sugar would mask the coffee's natural aroma and acidity—which are precisely the characteristics of Yunnan small bean coffee. However, you can add a little creamer for a smooth, fragrant experience.
Important Notice :
前街咖啡 FrontStreet Coffee has moved to new addredd:
FrontStreet Coffee Address: 315,Donghua East Road,GuangZhou
Tel:020 38364473
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