What are the characteristics of Geisha from Panama's 90+ Estates? Introduction to 90+Eleta Geisha from Volcán Region
The Story of Ninety Plus: From Geisha Enthusiasm to Coffee Excellence
When it comes to the most popular coffee varieties, many people think of Geisha, especially those grown in Panama. That's why FrontStreet Coffee's bean list includes several Geisha coffees from Panama, among which the 90+ Eleta easily catches attention. Many people ask: Is 90+ a farm? Where is it in Panama? What are the characteristics of the Geisha it produces?
Actually, 90+ is the full name of Ninety Plus, an American company founded by Joseph Brodsky in 2006.
In 2004, Hacienda La Esmeralda participated in the Panama BOP competition with Geisha. The Geisha variety successfully stood out and won the championship with its floral and citrus-toned flavors. The Geisha variety thus rose to prominence, attracting significant interest and attention, including from Joseph Brodsky, the founder of Ninety Plus.
Joseph then traveled to Panama hoping to find coffee bean varieties that could compare with Geisha, but unfortunately, his efforts ended in failure. However, Joseph didn't give up; instead, he chose to go to Ethiopia, where there are more undiscovered coffee varieties.
In 2006, Joseph began living in Ethiopia and participating full-time in local coffee cultivation work, starting to handle and research coffee processing. Initially, due to insufficient funds, he didn't have his own plantation and could only purchase high-quality coffee berries picked by others, exporting them after meticulous processing. Under these circumstances, the coffee Joseph produced began to attract attention in the coffee industry for its extremely rich fruit flavors and excellent quality, including from some international competition participants. Ninety Plus Company gradually made its name.
Establishment of Ninety Plus Estates
However, Joseph had never found quality that could match Geisha, so he decided to cultivate Geisha and use his unique processing methods to create top-tier Geisha. Therefore, in 2009, Joseph returned to Panama and acquired the approximately 200-hectare Ninety Plus Gesha Estate in Volcan-Candela, beginning to plant coffee, mainly cultivating the coffee varieties he brought back from Ethiopia as well as Panama Geisha varieties. Coffee beans were officially produced starting in 2014. Later, Ninety Plus Company also acquired a plot on the western side of Barú Volcano in 2019, establishing Ninety Plus Barú Estates, though this estate has not yet officially produced coffee beans.
Volcan-Candela: The Terroir of Excellence
The Volcan-Candela region, where the Ninety Plus Gesha Estate is located, is one of Panama's main coffee-producing areas. Although not as famous as Boquete in terms of reputation, it同样 possesses rich natural resources. The Volcan-Candela region is located on the eastern side of Barú Volcano, with coffee grown between altitudes of 1,200-1,800 meters, also featuring fertile volcanic soil and abundant sunlight. However, due to the mountain barrier in the northern part of the region, Atlantic moisture has difficulty reaching it, making the climate of this producing area relatively drier.
Innovative Processing Methods
Ninety Plus Company has established a Profile Processing system to oversee the entire process from varieties, cultivation, harvesting to processing methods, customizing processing methods for each coffee bean. They also created the Ninety Plus Sensory Room (NP Sensory Laboratory) and Solar Kiln Laboratory for experimenting with various green bean processing methods different from conventional approaches.
FrontStreet Coffee's Ninety Plus Selection
Currently, FrontStreet Coffee offers two 90+ series coffee beans from this estate: Juliet Geisha and Eleta Geisha. Both belong to the 90+ processing method, but Ninety Plus Company has not disclosed the specific processing methods. Through cupping, it's speculated that they use anaerobic natural processing.
When brewed, Eleta Geisha reveals aromas of longan and preserved fruit. On the palate, it presents flavors of bergamot, sweet orange, grape, and pineapple, with the refreshing sweetness of apple juice, a rich and varied mouthfeel, and an endless aftertaste.
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