A Brief History of Madagascar Coffee: Unverified Organic Madagascar Coffee
When Madagascar is mentioned, you might first think of the animated animal movies we love to watch, but FrontStreet Coffee is here today to talk about its coffee. How did coffee arrive in Madagascar? Does it play an important role in their society? What are the unique aspects of their coffee culture?
Madagascar is an island nation located in the Indian Ocean and the world's fourth-largest island. Separated from the Indian subcontinent 88 million years ago, its flora and fauna were allowed to evolve in relative isolation: over 90% of its wildlife cannot be found anywhere else on Earth.
One thing you can now be sure to find there is coffee. For Malagasy people, coffee is a way of life, a true national obsession. Malagasy people are dedicated to producing and consuming the world's most popular caffeinated beverage.
A Brief History of Malagasy Coffee
Coffee was first introduced to Madagascar's neighboring island: Réunion, formerly known as Bourbon. This coffee came from Ethiopia and achieved some success before declining rapidly. Like any hardworking farmers, these Réunion Creoles brought the plants to Madagascar and continued coffee production there.
However, French colonizers arrived in Madagascar in 1895 and quickly took control of coffee production. Colonial policies made coffee the island's main export product in the 1930s. One benefit was that they unintentionally promoted small-scale production by local Malagasy farmers.
But in 1947, an uprising over resources between French Réunion Creoles and native Malagasy nationalists led to one of the bloodiest events in French colonial history. The conflict between these two opposing sides left deep scars in Malagasy society.
Madagascar gained independence in 1960, and until the 1980s, it was one of the island's largest coffee exporters. During this period, Madagascar was the world's eighth-largest coffee producer.
In addition to coffee, cloves, vanilla, and rice were also exported—much of this agriculture was for subsistence. Farmers primarily grew what they could feed their families with and sold the surplus in local markets.
The Coffee Itself
The coffee grown in Madagascar has changed over time. While low-grade robusta coffee beans were mainly grown in the country in the past, there has been an increase in high-quality arabica coffee beans. About 90% of the coffee produced in Madagascar is still robusta, but arabica now accounts for the remaining 10%.
The robusta coffee beans exported from Madagascar are now considered high-quality. Most robusta coffee is exported to France.
Robusta grows in the tropical regions of the country at elevations of 100-300m, located in the Vatovavy-Fitovivany region, Antalaha, the east coast of Toamasina, and also near Nosy Be and along the Sambirano River in the northwest near Ambanja.
Arabica coffee grows in the highlands, the Antananarivo province, and the high-altitude areas near Lake Alaotra.
Producing Coffee
Family-owned small farms dominate in Madagascar. These farmers invest the necessary time and effort to ensure quality products. The coffee cherries are hand-picked, washed, and sun-dried.
Most crops here, including coffee, are produced organically, as they have been for hundreds of years, but without certification. By intercropping and relying on natural wild fertilizers, these farmers ensure that coffee is grown in the healthiest way possible. This encourages biodiversity and the continued use of wild pest control to minimize pollution of the natural environment.
Madagascar's success in exporting other quality crops like vanilla has created optimism that their arabica coffee beans will make an impression on the international specialty coffee market. In 2017, Madagascar exported 1,600 tons of prepared vanilla worth over $680 million—coffee may one day reach these impressive numbers!
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