Panama Hartmann Estate Coffee | Introduction to Panama Hartmann Estate Wine Processing

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FrontStreet Coffee - Panama Hartmann Estate Black Winey Processing Introduction

Panama Hartmann Black Winey

Country: Panama

Grade: SHG

Region: Volcán Region

Altitude: 1250-1700 Meters

Processing Method: Black Winey Processing

Variety: Catuai

Estate: Hartmann Estate

01 | Region Introduction

One of the most important reasons for Panama's unique coffee quality is its microclimate. Panama borders Costa Rica and Colombia, and the east-to-west environment allows cold air currents to flow through the central mountain range and converge above 6,500 feet, creating a very unique microclimate in the Boquete and Volcán Candela regions, making them the main coffee-producing areas of Panama. The land surrounding these areas is rich in nutrients, and these fertile soils provide perfect growing conditions for coffee, shaping numerous unique, high-quality coffees.

Volcán Region

When discussing Panama's coffee traditions, most people are more familiar with specialty coffee regions from Boquete, but in recent years, coffee from the Volcán region has gradually emerged in the specialty market. Quite a few estates have even entered the Best of Panama competition and won championships. The Volcán region generally has lower annual rainfall than Boquete, and its geographical location on the west side of Barú Volcano gives the coffee more intense dried fruit flavors, sweetness, and aroma compared to the Boquete region.

In the early days, the Volcán area mostly grew economic crops such as fruits and vegetables, with very few farmers cultivating coffee. Among the coffee cultivation pioneers in the Volcán region was the well-known Hartmann family in Panama.

Hartmann Estate

Currently, there are at least two published books focusing on Hartmann Estate's bird-friendly and shade-grown cultivation themes, and more than ten papers have been published in scientific journals. This demonstrates that their reputation extends not only within the coffee industry but also resonates widely in the scientific community for their environmental protection efforts.

Today, the estate is continuously operated by the third generation of the family. Mr. Ratibor Hartmann and his four siblings each take on different roles in the estate. They live together on the estate and make a living from growing coffee.

The Hartmann family also manages and processes coffee for many estates in Panama, such as the perennial winner of Best of Panama, Finca La Mula, and 90+'s estate in Panama, both under the management of the Hartmann family. Although the estate maintains a low profile and rarely appears in Best of Panama competitions, their coffee is among the finest in Panama. The Hartmann family's contribution to Panama's coffee reputation today is undeniable.

02 | Processing Method

Black Winey Processing (also known as carbon dioxide processing), also called wine-like processing, draws inspiration from winemaking techniques. Black winey processing can control pH values, and even temperature and humidity, to ensure coffee bean quality, while sealed fermentation prevents aromatic substances from easily evaporating.

Carbon dioxide maceration processing is a new processing method applied in black winey processing, where coffee beans are removed of pulp and skin and placed in stainless steel containers filled with carbon dioxide gas, creating an anaerobic state. The fermentation tanks are sealed, which allows for the development of more aromatic compounds.

Origin of Black Winey Processing

Traditional processing methods struggle to control the variable fermentation degree of coffee beans. However, black winey processing can control pH values, and even temperature and humidity, to ensure coffee bean quality, while sealed fermentation prevents aromatic substances from easily evaporating.

The black winey processing method for coffee beans, also called wine-like processing, draws inspiration from winemaking techniques. For example, eight estates in Colombia have successfully brought coffee beans processed using this method to market. Based on data from these eight estates, we can roughly classify black winey processing types into: acetic fermentation (Aerobic fermentation), lactic acid fermentation (Anaerobic fermentation), and mixed fermentation (Mix Fermentation = Aerobic + Anaerobic).

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