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Hawaii Kona Coffee: America's Finest

Hawaii Kona is the only premium coffee produced among the 50 US states, and the American mainland is naturally its largest market. Kona beans have the most perfect appearance of all — the fruit is exceptionally full and brightly glossy, making them the most beautiful coffee beans in the world. The cup is smooth, rich, and fragrant, with an enticing nutty flavor and balanced acidity. Like the colorful spectrum of Hawaii itself, it is captivating, with a long-lasting aftertaste.

The world-renowned "Hawaii Kona" is a mellow yet acidic premium bean. Kona coffee grows on the slopes of Mauna Loa volcano on the southwestern coast of Hawaii. In flavor, Kona beans are closer to Central American coffees than to Indonesian ones. Average quality is very high and the processing is careful, with a medium body, good acidity, and very rich flavors. Fresh Kona is incredibly fragrant. If you find Indonesian coffee too heavy, African coffee too acidic, or Central and South American coffee too robust, then Kona may be exactly right for you. Kona is like a woman stepping out of Hawaii's sunshine and gentle breeze — fresh and natural.

Kona beans are uniform in shape and size, with strong acidity and sweetness and a smooth, silky mouthfeel. Grown on volcanic soil under high-density cultivation, each bean can be called a pampered "noble lady" — beautiful and plump, with baby-soft skin.

Although Hawaii frequently experiences hurricanes, its climate is actually very well suited to coffee. Rainfall and sunshine are abundant, and there is no worry of frost. There is also a peculiar natural phenomenon called "free shade": on most days, around 2 PM, clouds appear in the sky and provide the coffee trees with the shade they need. These superior natural conditions make the Arabica yield per unit in the Kona region higher than any other plantation in the world while maintaining high quality. That unique growing and climate environment creates a richer coffee flavor.

Unfortunately for coffee lovers, only about 1,400 hectares produce Kona coffee. What's more, Hawaii's high income levels and many tourists make Kona extremely expensive. Even "Kona blends" — which may contain only a tiny proportion of actual Kona beans — are sold. In recent years, neighboring islands such as Maui, Kauai, and Molokai have also begun commercial coffee cultivation.

Real Hawaii Kona coffee has a caramel-like sweetness that lets people enjoy a unique pleasure, leading you slowly into a transcendent state of coffee tasting. Among all coffee producers, Hawaii's coffee industry management is among the strictest, with the highest labor costs and the best-funded operations.

Hawaii's coffee industry also has to compete with expanding tourism for space. Most coffee grows on the slopes of Mauna Loa. Mauna Loa was originally a volcano in the western part of the Kona region on the island of Hawaii. This coffee-producing area is about 30 kilometers long, with cultivation concentrated mainly in the northern and southern parts. Coffee trees are planted in relatively barren areas, but the soil is fertile, containing volcanic ash. Although strong physical labor is required at the start and management is challenging, it is comforting that Kona's coffee trees — at least those growing above 900 meters — seem untouched by pests or disease.

Coffee tree pests and diseases are formidable, especially a small insect called the Coffee Berry Borer. Eliminating these pests usually requires spraying heavy doses of pesticide, and humans and animals are kept out for two weeks after each application because of the risk of poisoning. Hawaii Kona is uniquely blessed without this pest, making it naturally eco-friendly and free from pesticide contamination.

Today, the main Kona coffee producing area lies in the southwestern part of Hawaii's Big Island, covering 20 miles long and 2 miles wide across the slopes of Hualalai and Mauna Loa. Only beans grown in this region and meeting the strictest certification standards may bear the Kona trademark for sale. Today about 100 farms produce beans that meet these standards, and more are expected to follow. Hawaii has long been recognized as paradise on earth; after nearly two centuries of coffee cultivation, the name Kona has become almost synonymous with quality.

Other Hawaiian islands are now trying to catch up with Kona's high standards. Today's Hawaii, for beachgoers and coffee lovers alike, truly lives up to Mark Twain's description of it as the most pleasant place on Earth.

Kona Coffee Grades and Classification

Real Hawaii Kona coffee is a world treasure, not easy to find, and even difficult to buy as a genuine product on the American mainland. The best Kona coffee is divided into three grades:

• Extra Fancy
• Fancy
• Number One

These three grades are produced both on estates and under natural conditions. Most coffees on the market today that call themselves "Kona" contain less than 5% real Hawaii Kona coffee. In the United States, you can also find another good Hawaiian coffee — Hawaii Kai Farms Coffee.

Travelers can therefore visit coffee farms, watch or take part in harvesting, processing, roasting, and grinding, and make a cup genuinely their own. In the Kona region there are about 600 independent coffee farms, most of them small-scale family farms with cultivation areas typically between 18 and 42 acres. Kona coffee can generate over $10 million in annual revenue for these farms.

Cultivation and Cultural Heritage

Kona coffee cultivation has always followed a family farming model. Initially only men were allowed to work in the coffee gardens, but later women joined as well. Hawaiian family production preferred to rely on family labor rather than hired workers, so it was normal for Hawaiian families to have eight or nine children. Later, new immigrants kept arriving from the Philippines, the American mainland, and Europe to work in Hawaii's coffee. Over time, Hawaii formed a social atmosphere centered on family culture while readily absorbing foreign influences — a defining feature of the islands.

The island of Hawaii is the largest in the Hawaiian chain, hence also called the Big Island. Kona coffee is produced in the western and southern parts of the Kona region. Coffee trees spread across the slopes of Hualalai and Mauna Loa at altitudes of 150–750 meters, perfect for coffee. Kona's excellent quality comes from its suitable location and climate. Trees grow on volcanic slopes, and the geography ensures the altitude coffee needs; dark volcanic ash soil supplies necessary minerals; and the climate is ideal — morning sun passing gently through moisture-filled air, afternoons that grow more humid and foggy, with drifting white clouds acting as natural umbrellas, and clear, cool nights that never bring frost. These conditions give Kona an average yield of 2,240 kilograms per hectare, while in Latin America the yield is only 600–900 kilograms per hectare.

Historical Development

In 1813, a Spaniard first planted coffee in Manoa Valley on Oahu — today the main campus of the University of Hawaii. In 1825, a British agriculturalist named John Wilkinson transplanted some coffee from Brazil to Chief Boki's coffee garden on Oahu. Three years later, an American missionary named Samuel Reverend Ruggles brought branches from Chief Boki's garden to Kona. This coffee is a descendant of Arabica trees that originally grew on the Ethiopian plateau. To this day, Kona coffee continues its noble and ancient lineage.

Hawaii's earliest coffee cultivation already used the model of large-scale plantations, at a time when coffee had not yet become a widely grown crop worldwide. Kona coffee production and sales went through several ups and downs. After World War I broke out, coffee demand rose dramatically, and the government bought large amounts of coffee to keep soldiers fighting fit. Rising demand triggered higher prices, and Kona was no exception. The years from the outbreak of World War I to 1928 were the golden age of Kona coffee. The Great Depression that followed dealt it a heavy blow. In 1940, World War II pushed prices up again, and to prevent excessive increases the US government set a price ceiling for coffee. Even so, Hawaii's coffee farmers still benefited considerably, and their method of transporting coffee fruit changed from mules to jeeps during this period. In the 1970s and 1980s, Kona prices went through several more ups and downs, but it was from this period that Kona cemented its status as a world-class premium coffee. Even with its worldwide fame, Kona's production remains relatively low.

From the early 19th century, Kona coffee began to be cultivated in the Kona area and has never stopped. Only coffee produced here can be called "Hawaii Kona." Kona green beans are usually single-origin beans in 100-bag packages. Kona beans are also often blended with beans from other parts of the world to make blended coffees, and blends will be labeled "Kona Blend" on the package. Unfortunately, the Kona content in these blends can be very low. In Hawaii, blends that may carry the "Kona" label must contain a minimum of 10% Kona beans. So unless you are in Kona, Hawaii, it is difficult to have 100% pure Kona beans.

Terroir and Flavor Profile

Spanning between 19 and 22 degrees north, south of the Tropic of Cancer and caressed by trade winds, the Hawaiian Islands are a naturally perfect coffee-growing region. This 50th US state, 2,400 miles from the mainland's west coast, is the only coffee-producing state in America. Hawaii's Kona is internationally renowned and acclaimed as one of the world's best coffees. Volcanic soil and a tropical climate, complemented by mild humidity and regular afternoon showers, create an ideal growing environment that seems drawn from an idyllic pastoral poem, adding delicate yet unique flavor to the beans. Overall, Hawaiian coffee has a medium-light viscosity and a medium-strong aroma, in harmony with its relatively bright acidity. David Kingman, head of the Big Island roasting and retail company Kona Mist, says: "This is definitely the world's best coffee, with drupe and chocolate flavors, smooth and delicious to drink."

Although all Hawaiian islands commercially grow coffee, the Big Island currently has the most estates — about 650 — though these are relatively small, totaling under 2,000 acres of planted land. On Maui, Molokai, Oahu, and Kauai, only 25 coffee farms are in operation. Yet these farms are much larger than those on the Big Island, with total production more than three times that of Big Island farms. Surprisingly, Kauai has the largest coffee cultivation area of all the islands, exceeding 4,000 acres and all managed by the same operator; Molokai has only 550 acres planted, while Maui and Oahu have even less. Most Hawaii coffee farmers still sell only fresh coffee cherries, but in recent years more and more have been adding value to their products, moving toward post-processing, drying, polishing, and roasting their own beans.

Kona Coffee Classification System

Kona beans are actually divided into five grades, with the first three most common, in order: Extra Fancy, Fancy, No. 1, Primary, and Peaberry. (Peaberry — round beans, commonly called "male beans" — is specially selected because some coffee lovers particularly prize it, and it sells at higher prices; about 5% of Kona beans are Peaberry.) Except for the specially selected Peaberry, the other four grades are classified by bean size, weight, and defect ratio. Before Kona green beans are exported, they are labeled with number tags on burlap bags indicating certification by the Hawaii Department of Agriculture, and accompanied by an official seal, making them more expensive. Kona prices are second only to Blue Mountain. From planting, harvesting, washing, sun-drying, and polishing, Kona relies entirely on manual labor, so limited production combined with American labor costs makes it high-quality and expensive. Today, Hawaii's 100% Kona coffee and Blue Mountain coffee are synonymous with premium coffee.

FrontStreet Coffee Recommendation

If Kona's balance and gentle nutty sweetness appeal to you, and you also enjoy the heavier Indonesian style, the FrontStreet Indonesia Wet-Hulled Mandheling is a great counterpart. Mandheling refers to Arabica from Sumatra, processed mainly by the local wet-hulled method: the parchment is stripped while the bean is still half-dry, leaving the green bean fully exposed to the air, which gives the coffee its typical herbal and spicy notes. From the Toba Lake area of the Lintong region, it is roasted medium-dark for a low-acid, full-bodied cup with caramel, dark chocolate, and toasted-bread aromas and a long, sweet finish.

For the top tier of Indonesian coffee, look to the FrontStreet PWN Golden Mandheling. PWN is a trading company that buys up quality Mandheling green beans, and "Golden Mandheling" is its signature product, screened by strict standards of density, size, shape, and color: machine-sorted once and hand-sorted once to remove defects, ensuring full, even, large, and translucent beans and reducing the earthy, grassy notes. Freshly roasted, it shows sandalwood, herbal, spice, roasted hazelnut, caramel, and dark chocolate notes, clean and richly sweet, with a captivating aroma and plenty of layers.

And for those who want Mandheling in an espresso, the FrontStreet Classic Blend adds a small amount of Robusta to a Mandheling-and-Brazil base and takes it to a deep roast, so its dark chocolate, nut, and caramel notes come through fully — even a newcomer can easily produce a classic Mandheling-style shot.