What are the growing conditions of Yemeni Mocha Ismaili? What is the Mocha coffee tree species? How to use V60

Introduction to Yemen Mocha Ismaili

What are the growing conditions of Yemen Mocha Ismaili? What is the Mocha coffee variety? How to brew freshly ground Mocha using a V60 dripper?

Processing and Origin

Yemen Mocha's special natural processing method involves manually harvesting coffee beans that have ripened and dried on the tree. The entire coffee cherries are placed directly in dedicated coffee drying fields or in their own compacted earthen front yards. During sun-drying, they are raked with wooden tools, similar to Taiwan's grain drying fields, to maintain evenness. After about twenty days, when the coffee drying is complete, the outer pulp and skin are removed to extract the coffee beans.

Common Yemen Mocha varieties include Sanani and Matari, both named after their production regions. Ismaili is named after its coffee variety and originates from the Hirazi region, making it the least produced and most expensive Yemen Mocha. The most correct spelling for Mocha coffee should be Al-Mahka, which is the Arabic spelling. However, the spelling ultimately seen on gunny sacks—Mocca or Mocha—is considered correct. Regardless of naming and spelling nuances, Yemen coffee is one of the most unique and expensive coffees in the world. In terms of overall style, it exhibits "wild" or "natural" coffee flavors with earthy undertones and extremely high complexity. For some people, the spicy aroma can be pungent, but regardless, you must find time to try it.

Coffee Growing Regions

Main coffee growing regions: Mattari, Hirazi, Haimi, Saihi, Ismaili, Sharasi, Dhamari, Rimy.

Ismaili Region and Growing Conditions

The Yemen Mocha Ismaili growing region is also home to the most traditional coffee variety. The Hirazi region, where Ismaili is produced and cultivated, is located at high altitudes of 6,500-8,000 feet. The coffee harvesting method remains the same as in ancient times—wild coffee grows naturally and matures on trees without any fertilizers or pesticides. After drying on the trees, the coffee naturally falls and is dried directly on the ground under sunlight. Coffee farmers simply collect the coffee from the ground and take it home, using stone mills to remove the dried pulp and skin. This is the most primitive natural processing method, which Yemen Ismaili still uses today.

Ismaili beans show considerable variation in size (photos available on the blog), which is related to their natural wild growth on steep terraces with little rainfall, poor soil, and insufficient sunlight. It is precisely these unique and difficult natural growing conditions that have established her irreplaceable position in the coffee world.

Coffee Varieties and History

Varieties: Over 10 special local native Mocha varieties, introduced from Ethiopia. They were introduced from Harar, the origin of Arabica, in Ethiopia in the 6th century or earlier. Yemen was the first country to start growing coffee after Ethiopia.

Agricultural Challenges

Yemen coffee growth and harvesting are not easy. Most farmland is planted with Qat (khat), a plant whose leaves are said to have mild stimulating effects. This plant absorbs moisture from underground, thereby damaging the underground water table. Unlike coffee cultivation, there are hopes to make changes so farmers will stop planting khat.

Roasting Profiles

Light Roast (City Roast - End of First Crack)

Opening the coffee gunny sack reveals a mysterious Ceylon black tea aroma. After grinding, the coffee has a subtle osmanthus fragrance. After brewing, it carries a dense jasmine tea aroma, with an exceptionally clean and silky smooth mouthfeel like fine silk. The sweetness of dried longan and honey persists for a considerable time, while the aftertaste of chrysanthemum or chamomile sweetness continuously rotates, triggering floral aromas in the nasal cavity. It's recommended to brew 7-14 days after roasting or use it for cold drip coffee, when the complex fermented floral, herbal, and wine aromas are at their best.

Dark Roast (Full City Roast - Beginning of Second Crack)

45 seconds after the end of the first crack is the darkest roast level for Yemen Ismaili. The dry aroma of black tea and fermented tea becomes strong and exuberant. After brewing, it reveals special aromas of ginseng, fennel, and Houttuynia cordata. The entry presents a gentle, smooth, and sweet mouthfeel, where the sweetness of peach is discernible with fermented fruit wine notes. The aftertaste of Ismaili is sweet like honey plum wine. It's recommended to brew 72 hours after roasting to allow the volatile elements to dissipate, fully revealing Ismaili's strong maple syrup flavor and oily cocoa sweetness, making the entire mouthfeel rich and distinct.

The History of Mocha Port

Mocha was Yemen's coffee export port. In coffee trade history, naming all very small sub-regions presented certain difficulties, even though the coffee produced by these insignificant small regions was indeed outstanding. Therefore, they used the export location as the name, including nearby natural-processed beans from East Africa, which were all exported to various parts of the world from Mocha port in early times. Today, Mocha port has long been silted up and disappeared. Many Ethiopian natural-processed beans also name themselves Mocha, such as the well-known Harar Mocha. I believe this is because their flavor shares some common characteristics with Yemen coffee.

Yemen's Coffee Culture and Trade

Yemen is very likely the first country in the world to use coffee as a cash crop. Legend has it that coffee was introduced from Ethiopia by Islamic Sufi pilgrims in the 6th century. Yemen's coffee culture differs from other regions—exporters don't purchase directly from farms but rather buy from large intermediate channel dealers. The local channel dealers receive coffee that still contains pods—it's whole sun-dried coffee cherries, usually stored in cellars. The special flavor of Yemen coffee that the world loves perhaps comes from their ancient trading methods.

Yemen's coffee farmers have not been harmed by trading through large channel dealers, mainly because local coffee growing land is limited, combined with high latitude and limited water resources, making production very scarce. Meanwhile, the demand for Yemen coffee is extremely high, keeping Yemen coffee prices居高不下.

Cultivation Methods

Shade cultivation method: Wild cultivation, with shading but no written records. Coffee is planted on terraces.

FrontStreet Coffee's Recommended Brewing Method

Dripper: Hario V60
Water temperature: 88°C
Grind size: Fuji Roku grinder setting 4
Brewing technique: Water-to-coffee ratio 1:15, 15g coffee grounds. First infusion with 25g water, let bloom for 25 seconds. Second infusion to 120g, then pause. Wait until the water level in the coffee bed drops to halfway, then continue infusion. Slowly pour water until reaching 225g total. Extraction time approximately 2:00.

Analysis

Using a three-stage brewing method to clearly distinguish the front, middle, and back-end flavors of the coffee. Because the V60 has many ribs and faster drainage speed, pausing the water flow can extend the extraction time.

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