传统咖啡冲泡方法：在精品咖啡时代，谁还想品尝一杯传统咖啡？

Whenever the word "coffee" is mentioned, many people immediately start discussing brewing methods and flavor profiles. They often view non-modern coffee brewing techniques with skepticism, believing they inevitably lead to over-extraction and questioning their worth. In this era of specialty coffee dominance, who would still be willing to try a cup of the most traditional coffee?

A simple stainless steel coffee pot, a seemingly inexpensive drip filter spoon, and an elderly man past his sixties—these elements guard a traditional Thai coffee shop with 117 years of history. Here, there are no specialty coffee beans, no pour-over coffee, no espresso machines, and no elaborate decorations. Every item in the shop tells the story of its century-long existence.

The Siamese Century Coffee House

This century-old coffee shop, located in Pathum Thani Province in northwestern Thailand, is named "Zhang Li Rong." In the Teochew dialect, "Li Rong" carries the meaning of "a house full of good stories." The shop's founder was a Teochew businessman who came to Siam (now Thailand) about a century ago.

According to the current owner, Ananchai, his grandfather arrived in northwestern Thailand around 1900. His grandfather initially sold coffee beans at a canal market. After earning enough money, he purchased a property along the riverbank and started this coffee shop in 1905. Ananchai represents the third generation to take over the family business.

Because this place holds many generational memories for local residents, many locals make it a point to visit for a cup whenever they go to the floating market. Ananchai mentions that the coffee beans used in the shop are all Robusta varieties from southern Thailand. Every morning, he wakes up early to prepare charcoal and then roasts the coffee beans. The entire roasting process typically takes 30-50 minutes, during which he must constantly control the heat to ensure the coffee beans achieve a dark roast without developing a burnt, bitter taste.

After roasting, the coffee beans are ground to the appropriate coarseness and stored in iron cans, ready to welcome customers. The shop doesn't offer many coffee varieties, all labeled in Teochew dialect. For example, "suang kao" refers to a mix of cold and hot coffee; "gao baht" (nine baht, as Thai currency is called "baht" locally) is coffee with red syrup; and "O liang" is black coffee with ice cubes...

kopi suang kao

Affordable Tradition

The prices are incredibly affordable! All coffee costs only 10 baht (1.9 RMB), with takeout at 15 baht (2.8 RMB). The coffee shop has maintained these prices both before and after the pandemic. Ananchai has no plans to increase prices because this income is sufficient for his livelihood, and nearby residents have grown accustomed to these prices. For him, running the coffee shop is more about preserving the heritage of previous generations and offering everyone the most traditional Thai local coffee.

Regarding the inheritance of this century-old coffee shop, Ananchai has no specific plans. If the next generation is willing to take over the family business, whether direct descendants or not, he would be happy to pass it on. But if the next generation considers it a burden, he won't force them. However, he will continue to run the coffee shop until he can no longer work.

A Living Legacy

Every item in the coffee shop has its own story, and the photographs on the walls narrate the experiences of several generations. Century-old tables and chairs, a century-old coffee stove, century-old roasting techniques, and century-old brewing methods—all perfectly embody the most traditional Chinese concept of "inheriting the family business." Every seemingly ordinary cup of coffee speaks to the meaning of "legacy."

The owner acknowledges that running a century-old coffee shop isn't easy. Before the rise of the internet, coffee shops relied on neighborhood business, and the community's enthusiasm helped the shop survive financial storms and various natural disasters. Then in 2005, the owner helped a group of hungry young people...

To express their gratitude, these young people promoted this century-old coffee shop through social networks. Soon after, more young people came to "check in." The originally low-key coffee shop quickly gained fame from northwestern Thailand throughout the entire country. Many international tourists also made special visits, seeking not only a cup of the most traditional Thai local coffee but also to experience this cultural heritage.

Traditional Coffee Beyond Thailand

Besides Thailand, many establishments in Hong Kong still preserve traditional coffee brewing methods and roasting techniques. Charcoal-roasted coffee, adding white wine during roasting, stir-frying coffee beans in iron woks—each shop that persists in serving traditional coffee has its unique understanding and techniques for roasting coffee beans. No complex brewing methods, just a filter and a pot, serving generations with their secret coffee recipes. Though they may all look like black coffee, even with sugar and milk added, each offers a distinct experience.

Perhaps for many people, traditional coffee might seem "bitterly unpleasant" or simply "over-extracted," but few have truly tasted it or are willing to try.

Don't let superficial constraints limit your exploration of coffee. The truly interesting aspects often lie in these traditional coffees that don't conform to modern specialty coffee's "golden cup extraction theory" or expected "roasting curves."

Image source: Internet | Today Thailand

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